Canal Barge Diaries: Petite Corvee, Septembre 6th-20th/2010
Chabeuil, Assac, Dompierre-sur-Besbre, Locaboat , Monday, September 6th:
Dompierre-sur-Besbre, Day 1, September 6th:
Cave de Tain, Saint Joseph, ASJC, 2007, 100% Marsanne, 13%, 9.50€
Les Hauts de Fief, 2007, Crozes-Hermitage, ACHC, 100% Syrah, 13%, 9.80€
Dompierre-sur-Besbre, Day 2, Tuesday, September 7th:
Up at 7:52am, after a wonderful sleep in my single bunk, across from CL, far enough away so that she couldn't poke me when she felt l had exceeded the snore metre maximum, In spite of getting up at around 1:30am, to close the window to prevent the heavy rain from coming in and soaking me! We heard thunder most of the evening but rain that fell before dinner was quite light and intermittent. On and off, during course of night, I would wake to the sound of the rain on the deck above, and be lulled back to sleep by the same drumming. Put kettle on to boil and had coffee steaming in thermos and tea steeping by time Flamin' and Sarge appeared from their cabin, aft. Sarge set about disposing of yesterday's garbage and topped up water tank while CL/F set of to town for the bread Sargen had been fussing about since he woke up.
Ship's Log:
Cast anchor at 8:45am, as soon as Goils returned from Boulangerie with chocolate croissants and bread, matches and bottled water from Le Tabac. Since I had already made drip coffee and brewed tea, owe ate our breakfast as we cruised along slowly, Sarge finding his way with steering and throttle speed. First small pont, still on the Embranchement de Dompierre, very narrow, with but less than a foot to spare on either side, and then under Pont-canal de la Besbre, much larger passageway so not intake of breath. Shortly thereafter, we turned a la gouche to head in a more northerly direction, under Pont de Sept-Fons, near Abbaye des Sept-Fons, and then Pont des Taillis toward Bessais where we entered the first lock, not listed on our trip sheet, at 9:20am, cleared at 9:40am, with the able assistance of 1st Mate, Flamin', on lock wall, Cora Lee, Aft Deckhand, and Patrizio, Bow Deckhand, and helpful Lock Keeper, whom we tipped 2€ as it was our "Premier Fois!" Little difficulty with ropes and docking procedure so crew felt more confident about next lock. 1st Mate took over helm at 9:48am for her first lesson at wheel. So far, Petite Curvee is describing a torpedoe evading, zig-zag course along the Canal lateral a la Loire!
Onwards towards le Bas des Jonces and under Flamin's foist bridge, Pont de Thiel, successfully negotiated, and then under the second, Pont de Petrot. Second lock at Beaulon, nimbly handled by all the crew, other than a slight "bump" by El Capitaine as we entered lock!
On to 9 Clos du May, third lock, where we shared it with a sailboat, at 10:43am. Lock Keeper was a comely young woman. Flamin' took helm once out of lock, 10:52am, and we made for Garnat-sur-Engieve. Past this village and th.en under Pont de l'Huilerie and Pont de St- Martin where we started a holding pattern behind sailboat as we waited for an upstream boat to enter Rosiere lock, fourth lock at 11:43am. While waiting for lock to empty, chatted with chap on sailboat and learned that he and his companion had come all the way from Sardinia! They will make their way back to Southampton via Paris and Le Havre. They have been doing similar trips for last four years.
Cleared lock at 11:55am and once Mate hopped back aboard, (each lock has a set of stairs on each side of canal, at either end, with a small landing), Able Seaman Cora Lee, took helm for her first lesson, and did very well under her first bridge, Pont de Rosiere, making for Pont de Boise, throttling up as she gained confidence and control of touch sensitive wheel. Heading toward Bellevue, she became a bit overconfident and almost beached PC sur l'herbe, until Sarge came to rescue! Continuing with the Zig-Zag waltz, we inched our way towards les Gailloux where Cora Lee tried to sideswipe a tethered bateau, moored just past Pont de Boise! Catastrophe avoided, we motored along, anticipating having lunch around12:30pm, since all the locks close between noon and 1:00pm.
After lunch, (green salad, Andre's tomatoes, feta cheese and wonderful petite quiche, broccoli, mushroom, salmon, and legume), tea and java, we motored past Southhamptoners still moored to bank, waving goodbye, cruising past Bellevue and entered Gailloux lock, our fifth, at 1:20pm. Making short shrift of this lowering, we excited at 1:28pm and cruised past les Bonins, then under Pont des Viviers, an iron structure as opposed to stone bridges we'd encountered so far. past les Mittiers to Vanneaux, our sixth lock. Entered at 1:53pm and tied up behind a party from Germany, on the10th day of their two-week cruise. Flamin' chatted with one of women aboard and she mentioned that the countryside north of opDecize, our destination form the day, was very picturesque. Cleared lock at 2:00pm but almost left Flamin' behind as safety chain was not unlatched, mid-craft, and she couldn't hop aboard as we glided past. Had to pull up next to bank and she clambered aboard, muttering unmentionables under her breath!
Fairly smooth cruising, Sarge back at helm, past les Maulais, under Pont de la Rue des Gues and onto Nogent, passing a fire damaged house, roof gone, just charred beams left, walls otherwise intact and seemingly undamaged. Under Pont de Nogent and then all hands scrambled back on deck as we nosed into l'Huilerie, our seventh lock, at 2:35pm. Flamin' tied us off and then hopped aboard before lock emptied. We learned a new docking technique here, instructed by Lock Master. Looped both fore and aft lines around same bollard and this way we were able to keep PC close to wall of lock and away from other boat ahead. Took a tad longer to exit, 2:45pm, as Lock Keeper had to crank both gates open, Flamin' being back inside cabin, warm and cosy, ready her eBook, The Girl Who Kicked the Hornet's Nest, while rest of deck crew shivered in the fairly steady rain. Obviously no rum ration for her once we reach safe haven!
Under Pont des Cornats, past les Dariats, towards la Motte, eighth lock, at 2:35pm, idling until Germans made their way into lock and we followed at 3:10pm. Very efficient docking and with Flamin' helping open lock, we were on our way by 3:18pm, catching the Mate on the fly as she stepped aboard using the break in the forward, starboard railing. Past Domaine Grand-Jane and Domaine Durand, Chez Mirbault and Saisy, then under Pont de la Croix des-Feuilles. Nothing but quiet canal until a slight curve in waterway near le Bourgeon and then Saulx, ninth lock, Chateau de Saulx, port side, in the distance. Would have been quickest time to date, had not Flamin' fouled forward line, causing us to drift astern while she untied knot, whining all the while that it was not her fault and that certain crew members should be keel-hauled! Nonetheless, in at 3:57pm and out at 4:07pm.
Under Pont de Saulx, past St-Maurice and then Decize itself. First automatic lock, (tenth of day), that we had encountered and so were not quite sure of proper approach. Just as Sarge had manoeuvered PC so that Flamin' could jump ashore, Green Light on traffic signal in front of lock turned from red to green as gates opened to accept our craft. Helpful Lock Keeper talked us through correct actions and while lock was disgorging itself, told us about a number of restaurants in town that were not far from marina where we planned to tie up for night.
Sarge had some difficulty docking until some friendly Germans, another group from ones on canal, helped us moor. After chatting with them, (they were headed to another moorage closer to city centre but in a narrower channel and chap at Locaboat in Dompierre had advised Sarge to stay away from place.), we decided to stay where we were and Cora Lee went to pay 12€ overnight fee. This included water and electricity but showers were 2€ per person. Goils opted to bath ashore and Sarge and I were happy to use facilities aboard. Goils departed to clean their pores and lads disrobed, ready for our own ablutions. Just before I had my shower, I decided to check on my iPad to make sure it was recharging at only outlet on boat. As it turned out, it wasn't and after checking other appliances, (hair dryer, Flamin's iPad, Sarge's Blackberry), it was clear outlet wasn't live. Perplexed and somewhat concerned, (no charging juice for two weeks would prove a significant problem for all sorts of reasons), we decided to clean-up and try to figure out problem after a hot shower and a cold beer!
By time I was squeaky clean, (hand-held shower was wonderfully efficient and hot was piping hot), Goils were backh and Sarge had deduced that system would really work far better if he plugged in extension cord to socket in stern! When we left Dompierre this morning, he had unplugged it from socket when winding long cord onto portable reel. I had plugged cord into power outlet on dock and simply assumed it was connected to boat's electrical system! Pleased as punch that disaster had been averted, we cracked open the Box SB and filled a carafe, (a la Restaurant House Wine style and were just toasting g watch other when male Southamptoner walked by. We invited him aboard and he accepted without too, too much persuasion. We learned his name was Homme, (He told us it was a Dutch name. New to me and I'd never heard it used as a first name before.), and that his partner's name was Kate. She joined us a few minutes later as she had been doing some work on their computer and needed to finish it off before having a drink.
Very interesting young couple. He is a website designer/consultant and she a transportation consultant. For last four years they have worked for sixth months, basically during winter months, and then taken six months to sail the Mediterranean, reaching it via the various waterways in France. We had a grand time chatting. Flamin' b.fought out one of the cheese wedges we had purchased in Dompierre and along with some grapes and crackers, we had tasty hors d'oeuvres. Visited for about an hour and then it was time for us to stroll into town for dinner. Exchanged cards and wished them well on remainder of their journey in case we didn't see them the next morning.
Flamin' had scored a small map of Decize and so we set off in direction of the restaurants that had been suggested to us. Path took us over a bridge near our moorages and along a gorgeous, poplar lined levee. Few drops of rain had fallen just before Happy Hour but it was relatively warm and dry when we set out, although sky was a magnificent grey, filled with serrated clouds. Centre Ville lay to our right over another, much larger concrete arch bridge, quite a monstrosity compared to many of the aesthetically pleasing structures we had encountered most everywhere, so we started to cross it when Sarge, Compass Man that he is, turned us around, mid-span, and pointed us in right direction.
Few minutes later we were in front of Charollais but too our bitter disappointment, (Goils in particular, as it was a ** joint and they were determined to eat there), it was closed. Undeterred, we crossed street and entered second choice on list, Hotel Agriculture, Logis. Obviously, a chain, as we had eaten our lunch at a Logis in Dompierre yesterday. As soon as we walked in, I found place almost unbearably warm and was a bit concerned at how comfortable it would be but once I shed my jacket, I was fine. Had a look at the wine list and decided upon a Pinot Noir as we had left the beefy Cotes du Rhones behind. Nonetheless, the wine was very acceptable, elegant even, with a very subtle hint of pepper and clove on finish.
Friendly, efficient waitress brought an amuse bouche, a glass of delicious frozen/grated cantaloupe, topped with small strips of a salty, dried meat of some kind. The combination of tastes was lovely. I ordered veal kidneys in a mustard sauce. They were simply divine and came with wonderful crown or two of cauliflower, green beans tied with a strip of carpaccio and some chunky pomme frites. Presentation was most attractive and taste, as I mentioned was wonderful. CL had local equivalent of Walleye which she said was delicious but didn't taste like Pickerel back home. F/S opted for steak as region is known for its Charollais beef cattle, I believe. France's equivalent of Alberta, perhaps. Tasty, indeed, from piece Sarge offered to me. Everyone declined dessert but I couldn't resist the pistachio creme caramel. It certainly was one of best I'd had and both CL and F agreed. I'd asked for four spoons but Sarge declined.
Paid l'addition, thanked attentive staff and then wended our more than satisfied tummies home, taking a different way home, through the town. On board by about 10:00pm and rest of gang went right to bed, Sarge, in particular, exhausted by mental concentration of learning how to maneuver an unfamiliar craft. Once I'd brushed and flossed I returned to quarter deck to work on CBD and clicked away until 11:00pm when I became drowsy. Squeaked, (floor boards in galley, between head and our cabin are very noisy), my way back to bunk and crawled beneath sheets, pulling duvet over myself as night was chilly. Virtually first time I've used one since beginning of trip as have been too hot most everywhere, rather than cold. Drifted off after a few minutes of reliving delightful, sometimes exciting, day!
Decize, Day 3, Wednesday, September 8th:
Cast of at 9:51pm, with Homme's assistance, forward, Kiss-Me-Kate, aft. Waved goodbye and I yanked the hanging rope, (much like a garage door opener at Harbour Terrace before Strata Council had it removed for security reasons), to open lock gates at second automatic lock. Once we had green light, Sarge piloted us in sided lock, at 9:51am, and I yanked the blue lever to close gates behind us. Few minutes later, water level dropped and gates ahead opened. Cleared first lock at 9:57am, best time ever, probably since we didn't have to tie off while dropping to required level.
Out into Loire River itself, Sarge paying close attention to marker buoys as numerous sandbanks in this part of system. Waving goodbye to Decize, we motored into the Canal du Nivernais, St-Leger-des-Vignes to port. In a holding pattern as had to wait for Loire lock, second of day, to open. Once it did, we followed another craft into lock and tied off once inside, at 10:15am. Had to wait for Lock Keeper to close gate behind us. Apparently he has a number of locks to attend to and uses a scooter to commute between them. He arrived at 10:32am and an impatient Captain Blye had already started cranking one side closed. Didn't take long for water level to rise and we cleared lock at 10:40am.
Short haul to Vauzelles lock, third, where we tied up against bank while waiting for LK. Taking advantage of stop, rest of crew went to a store we could see from canal to get provisions: luncheon meat, bottled water and, most important of all, box wine! Left Bosun Patrizio in charge of vessel' and so I listened to a classical music station while the rain continued its own symphony on the roof above and I brought CBD/Ship's Log up to date. Shoppers returned at 11:35am and shortly thereafter we cast off, entering lock at about 11:50am, behind another craft. Cleared lock at 12:02pm, El Capitaine, fussed, bothered and much dismayed that we had to wait so long for LK, lazy SOB that he was, according to Flamin', in defense of her Sweetie, not yet operating on canal time!
Past Le Bois Burget and Port la Copine, under Pont de la Copine and onto Champvert, fourth lock. Had tom tie up there tom wait until 1:00pm when LK would be back from lunch! Mouth-watering smells of garlic and onions wafting up from galley as Flamin' prepared lunch of fried spuds, Andre's tomats, together with smoked sausage purchased at Carrefour earlier this morning. We tied up at 12:15 and enjoyed Michel's tasty concoction, along without the fresh bread I'd picked up this morning when I cycled into Decize. By time I'd done dishes it was almost one and we cast off to enter lock at 1:15pm. Tied up while we waited for LK, different chap from previous set of locks but also charged with a number of locks. He arrived at 1:20pm and CL helped him close the lock gates. Cleared lock at 1:28pm, after Flamin' clambered aboard, with little difficulty as boat deck is now almost even with tow path, now that we are being lifted up.
Onto Roche, fifth lock, waving to our LK as he sped along tow path on his motorcycle to wait for us there, or perhaps deal with other craft heading in opposite direction. Other than having to slow down a number of times, while negotiating two un-named bridges, for really strong, steady wind from behind, with its powerful gusts could easily shift barge into bank if we were cruising too quickly. Even in lock, we were often buffeted from side topside and needed to be careful about not pitching over side!
Arrived at lock at 1:55pm and were just about to tie up to bank with Flamin' looping lines around bollards when our trusty LK arrived and we cast off. In a holding pattern, slight thrust forward and aft to maintain a static position, while lock emptied. Once gates opened we entered at 2:07pm and since skies had cleared, we off-loaded bikes and Goils and they started on a seven K ride! Exited lock at 2:19pm after I assisted LK with one side and then we set off to pursue The Sisterhood! Under Pont Canal and then smooth sailing all the way, past Vierneuil, longest stretch without a lock we'd yet encountered, under six un-named bridges, right to Cercy-la-Tour, sixth lock.
Caught up to our babes at ClT at around 3:15pm and CL came back aboard and I joined Flamin' on the tow path. PC entered lock at 3:34pm. While waiting for water to rise, we chatted with Australians in boat ahead. Two couples, both from Brisbane, on week three of a three week cruise. PC excited lock at 3:34pm but by that time Flamin' and I were racing ahead as we still had five locks to clear before we reached our destination for the night, Pannecot. Past the bridge at Martigny and then the seventh lock at Chaumigny, in at 4:37pm and then out at 4:47pm, Flamin' chatting all the while, as we helped with moorages, to Aussies. Learned their names: Lorraine and Matthew, Penelope and Stewart, as well as fact that they were on their sixth bottle! Started with vintage Champagne for breakfast so our type of people!!!
Back on comfy, efficient bikes, past Pont-levis du Tremblay, (ouvert), a mini Pont-Avignon, to Isenay, eighth lock. More chatting with Aussies as PC tied up behind them at 4:37pm. Out at 4:47pm to pedal past village of Isenay itself, to Moulin d'Isenay, ninth lock, where we repeated much the same docking/chatting exchange, to the minute: in at 5:15pm and out at 5:25pm. Waving goodbye, the Terrible Twosome passed by the pont near Les Malcives, stopping to pick a gorgeous bouquet from the bank of wildflowers beside the path, and met PC at Sauzay, the tenth lock. Here we put the bikes back on board while waiting for lock to fill, as we planned to stay in Pannecot for night. In at 5:45pm and out at 5:55pm.
Approached Les Sarreaux, across from Pannecot, and arrived at last lock, eleventh, (garde), at 6:10pm, just a few minutes later than Sarge's estimate. Lock here is permanently open so we followed Australians through and waved goodbye as they were planning to tie up at the marina/campground on the lagoon past lock. We had decided to continue on as we wanted to go as far we could with locks closing at 7:00pm. Just as we were tying up at Anizy, twelfth lock, (One of the prettiest on the whole canal, with a beautiful flower and vegetable garden, the scent of lavender perfuming the evening air.), at 6:25pm, we told LK that we were the last bateau. Just as confirmed this with him, who should arrive but the Wild Australians as the campground didn't have a restaurant and they were not prepared to pay 8€ for the night when they could moor for free sur l'herbe. At any rate, we moved ahead in the lock to fit them in and during the process agreed to clear one more lock before closing time. We excited at 6:37pm, the LK helped by an elderly couple who had tied up at Anizy.
Same LK was responsible for lock at Saigne and couple hopped on their motorized bicycles and set off to be of assistance there as well. We entered the lock, thirteenth, at 6:53pm. After both boats had tied up, we chatted to gentleman and I asked him how much their barge had cost. He replied that they had paid around 100,000€ for the boat. When I told Sarge, he did conversion, (roughly $140,000CDN), and he shook his head in disbelief. He thought that I was inquiring about the LK's annual salary and he wanted to know where he could apply!!! Cleared lock at just after 7:05pm and thanked everyone for assistance, making our past Mont and its bridge towards lock at Bernay. We stopped the obligatory 150m from lock and tied up, sur l'herbe, at a bollard, rear line, and at a stake Sarge pounded into bank, forward.
Aussies did the same behind us and as soon as we were ship-shape, Goils confabed with Sweet Loraine and Penelope, (rhymes with canteloupe, a la Francais), and it was decided we would do a pot luck. Matthew and Stuart had their portable BBQ and their deck table off-loaded onto tow path by the time we brought along out appetizers, cheese and smoked sausage, and box SB. Lads, other than me, drank beer and SL and Penny knocked back vintage Champagne and we chatted about our hols to date as well as learning more about each other. Lorraine and Stuart own a small swimming pool construction company with five or six employees, while Matthew is a pilot, in partnership with a friend. He first gained his Master's ticket in 1980 and worked in the Merchant Navy, mainly in oil shipping, for about 17 years, before starting this enterprise, the way that marine piloting has been privatized in Australia. The couples got to know one another when their sons played rugby together at school in Brisbane.
Coals on BBQ were struggling until Sarge got a blaze going to set them right. M/S grilled filet du canard as well as sausages and when they were done, we repaired to their large dining area and shared bread! CL had prepared a wonderful beef stew with white beans, whose mouth-watering smell had the noses of every LK we encountered once she had it on the burner, simmering, twitching with envy, so we enjoyed a virtual feast, along with Penny's green salad, topped with large flakes of Parmesan. We brought over a bottle of Vacqueras and one of the Les Hauts du Fief from Tain du Hermitage, them latter still thrilling for its peppery, spicey, elegant finish! Simply delightful, wonderful meal with delightful, wonderful company. We chatted about everything and, of course, ended up talking about a house exchange!
By 10:30pm, all the Goils were tired so went to their separate beds while Lads climbed the steps to The Starlight Lounge on their flying bridge and gazed at the Big Dipper and other celestial wonders as we sipped Laphroig, S/P only, M/S preferring beer. What An end to a marvelous day! Bidding goodnight to our generous hosts, we toddled back to PC, Sarge very kindly sheepherding me over both gang planks, not wanting to have tot fish me out of the canal! Out like a light once I'd brushed and flossed, CL already in Dreamland.
Bernay, Day 4, Thursday, September 9th:
Up at 7:55am
Cast off at 9:35am and entered Bernay lock, first, at 9:40am, clearing without incident at 9:49am. Sky overcast but just a sprinkle of rain which prevented me from digitating from bridge where Sarge is at helm, Able Seaman Cora Lee at his side. Flamin' puttering in galley as we make for Fleury, second lock, and the start of a truly zig-zag,serpentine course until Chantillon-en-Bazois, a possible luncheon destination.
In Fleury lock at 10:05am, tied up and quick chat with Sweet Lorraine whom then helped LK to open gates and we cleared lock at 10:00am, fastest time to date. Lock filled very quickly and all procedures went very smoothly, contributing to quick turnaround time!
Short haul to Brienne, third lock, in at 10:19am, out at 10:25, lock slower to fiil.
Chatted with Stuart about some of his maritime travels, (He was a captain in the Merchant Marine for many years before retiring from that to work as a an ocean pilot out of Brisbane.), while he was helping to open starboard gate.
On to Villard, fourth lock, Brinay in distance to starboard. Had to wait for LK so in a holding pattern, Aussies astern, doing same. Gates opened at 10:50am and we proceeded to enter lock. In at 10:57am, out at 11:06am.
On past Biches, on port, Romenay on starboard, to Meulot, fifth lock. In at 11:20am, out at 11:29am.
Past tiny village of Meulot itself for a few zig-zags before Eguilly, sixth lock. In at 11:50am, out at 11:59am.
Two bridges later, one near Pont, portside, and Alluy, starboard, with its church steeple against the clearing sky, to Coeuillon, seventh lock, garde, so sped through, on towards two locks before Chatillon-en-Bazois to tie up sur l'herbe for lunch on flying bridge, under umbrella as sun was blaming down. Bit of a cuffuffle as Flamin' managed to dump most of overleft stew onto deck and CL's shoes and bottom of her pants! Once spillage was washed off with buckets of water, hauled up from canal, by Sarge, we enjoyed a pleasant lunch of bread, cheese, ham and the last of Andre's flavorful tomatoes. Shortly before we had the last munch, boat ahead untied and we followed it into lock. Had discovered that we could tie up for free, with juice and water, so decided we'd spend rest of day there and overnight as well. I had cycled into village earlier and had located an Internet Cafe. We needed to check our email as well as buy provisions. Once we tied up and hocked up power and filled water tank, we took off to explore.
Sarge and Goils wandered town while I answered email and transferred entires from my Ipad Notes to my email account. I digitated for a couple of hours and then returned to boat by 4:30pm. CL and Sarge were reading on bridge, Flamin' was having a snooze. They'd made reservations for dinner at 7:30pm at a hotel in town. Sarge had also had a haircut at local hairdressing salon. As CL wanted me to shed my shaggy look, I headed back into town, (Lost the rivet on my left Croc when I caught strap on pedal. Saw it flip into grass beside path but though i searched for it for a few minutes, couldn't locate its whereabouts.)", but a few minutes away, stopping at La Poste for stamps but, unfortunately for me, it was closed. Found salon but had to wait but a few minutes, (wrote a postcard), until owner was finished with another client. Chatted amiably, in my fractured French, all the while, telling him about our trip to date. Also mentioned that "mon ami" had been in earlier and he said, "Monsieur Plus Grand", and indicated, with his hands, how tall Sarge was! Thanked him, apologized for my broken French and returned to PC tom find gang into box white! They complimented me on my cut. I was very pleased so I'll have to show Dino, my barber in Vancouver, the picture of myself CL snapped form the record.
I opened the bottle of red, Chateau Saint Remy, 2007 Fronsac, Grand Vin de Bordeaux, 13.5%, 4.65€, which gang had picked up at grocery store. Thinner than reds we'd enjoyed so much in Cotes du Rhone but went down rather nicely anyway. I had a quick shower and we all changed for dinner. Shortly after 7:00pm we strolled into town, along with a party of eight Germans, also going to l'Hotel de France. Once seated, we ordered a red Bourgogne, somewhat similar to Bordeaux we had earlier. I ordered a local sausage dish with snails for an appetizer. Rest had decided upon the fixed menu. Sarge had pate for entree, Goils chose salads. Everything was delicious. Sarge had a steak, Flamin' boeuf Burgignon and Cora Lee chicken. Must say that we were a bit disappointed with main courses as presentation was not nearly as attractive as last night's, and certainly not as tasty. We ordered a carafe ofmhouse red, a Beaujolais, which was, ironically, more flavorful and far cheaper than first bottle.
For dessert we certainly enjoyed the creme brûlée, perhaps the best we'd ever had. The brûlée was almost a filigree, fine as a spider's web and it literally melted in one's mouth. I scored Sarge's dessert as it came with his order and he didn't want it. Didn't have to ask me twice if I would like it! In fact, almost had to fight The Sisterhood with spoon jabs to keep them at bay! Unfortunatley, Flamin' was a bit cranky and crooked after three nights of not sleeping well and somehow got souchie with Sarge over some silly perceived disagreement about Seahawks, of all things to argue about! After we paid our bill, she left ahead of rest of us and walked home most of way by herself, Sarge following at a distance, CL and I, hand-in-hand, behind. By time we reached PC they were side by side but not touching.
Back aboard, Flamin' disappeared into their cabin while Sarge poured himself a stiff measure of malt, while CL and I were brushing and flossing. I was going to join him for a tot but he grunted that he was off to bed so I shrugged, said goodnight, and went to read with Cora Lee. Starting to enjoy Drop Shot by Corben Harlan, (Not one of my favorites but I started to read him after we saw the French film based on his Tell No One, a wonderful story with all sorts of plot twists and turns.), so I polished off a few chapters before turning off overhead bedside lamp, poifectly placed for reading! CL already snoring gently so I drifted off, serenaded by her gentle puff, puff, puffs!
Cast off at 9:35am and entered Bernay lock, first, at 9:40am, clearing without incident at 9:49am. Sky overcast but just a sprinkle of rain which prevented me from digitating from bridge where Sarge is at helm, Able Seaman Cora Lee at his side. Flamin' puttering in galley as we make for Fleury, second lock, and the start of a truly zig-zag,serpentine course until Chantillon-en-Bazois, a possible luncheon destination.
In Fleury lock at 10:05am, tied up and quick chat with Sweet Lorraine whom then helped LK to open gates and we cleared lock at 10:00am, fastest time to date. Lock filled very quickly and all procedures went very smoothly, contributing to quick turnaround time!
Short haul to Brienne, third lock, in at 10:19am, out at 10:25, lock slower to fiil.
Chatted with Stuart about some of his maritime travels, (He was a captain in the Merchant Marine for many years before retiring from that to work as a an ocean pilot out of Brisbane.), while he was helping to open starboard gate.
On to Villard, fourth lock, Brinay in distance to starboard. Had to wait for LK so in a holding pattern, Aussies astern, doing same. Gates opened at 10:50am and we proceeded to enter lock. In at 10:57am, out at 11:06am.
On past Biches, on port, Romenay on starboard, to Meulot, fifth lock. In at 11:20am, out at 11:29am.
Past tiny village of Meulot itself for a few zig-zags before Eguilly, sixth lock. In at 11:50am, out at 11:59am.
Two bridges later, one near Pont, portside, and Alluy, starboard, with its church steeple against the clearing sky, to Coeuillon, seventh lock, garde, so sped through, on towards two locks before Chatillon-en-Bazois to tie up sur l'herbe for lunch on flying bridge, under umbrella as sun was blaming down. Bit of a cuffuffle as Flamin' managed to dump most of overleft stew onto deck and CL's shoes and bottom of her pants! Once spillage was washed off with buckets of water, hauled up from canal, by Sarge, we enjoyed a pleasant lunch of bread, cheese, ham and the last of Andre's flavorful tomatoes. Shortly before we had the last munch, boat ahead untied and we followed it into lock. Had discovered that we could tie up for free, with juice and water, so decided we'd spend rest of day there and overnight as well. I had cycled into village earlier and had located an Internet Cafe. We needed to check our email as well as buy provisions. Once we tied up and hocked up power and filled water tank, we took off to explore.
Sarge and Goils wandered town while I answered email and transferred entires from my Ipad Notes to my email account. I digitated for a couple of hours and then returned to boat by 4:30pm. CL and Sarge were reading on bridge, Flamin' was having a snooze. They'd made reservations for dinner at 7:30pm at a hotel in town. Sarge had also had a haircut at local hairdressing salon. As CL wanted me to shed my shaggy look, I headed back into town, (Lost the rivet on my left Croc when I caught strap on pedal. Saw it flip into grass beside path but though i searched for it for a few minutes, couldn't locate its whereabouts.)", but a few minutes away, stopping at La Poste for stamps but, unfortunately for me, it was closed. Found salon but had to wait but a few minutes, (wrote a postcard), until owner was finished with another client. Chatted amiably, in my fractured French, all the while, telling him about our trip to date. Also mentioned that "mon ami" had been in earlier and he said, "Monsieur Plus Grand", and indicated, with his hands, how tall Sarge was! Thanked him, apologized for my broken French and returned to PC tom find gang into box white! They complimented me on my cut. I was very pleased so I'll have to show Dino, my barber in Vancouver, the picture of myself CL snapped form the record.
I opened the bottle of red, Chateau Saint Remy, 2007 Fronsac, Grand Vin de Bordeaux, 13.5%, 4.65€, which gang had picked up at grocery store. Thinner than reds we'd enjoyed so much in Cotes du Rhone but went down rather nicely anyway. I had a quick shower and we all changed for dinner. Shortly after 7:00pm we strolled into town, along with a party of eight Germans, also going to l'Hotel de France. Once seated, we ordered a red Bourgogne, somewhat similar to Bordeaux we had earlier. I ordered a local sausage dish with snails for an appetizer. Rest had decided upon the fixed menu. Sarge had pate for entree, Goils chose salads. Everything was delicious. Sarge had a steak, Flamin' boeuf Burgignon and Cora Lee chicken. Must say that we were a bit disappointed with main courses as presentation was not nearly as attractive as last night's, and certainly not as tasty. We ordered a carafe ofmhouse red, a Beaujolais, which was, ironically, more flavorful and far cheaper than first bottle.
For dessert we certainly enjoyed the creme brûlée, perhaps the best we'd ever had. The brûlée was almost a filigree, fine as a spider's web and it literally melted in one's mouth. I scored Sarge's dessert as it came with his order and he didn't want it. Didn't have to ask me twice if I would like it! In fact, almost had to fight The Sisterhood with spoon jabs to keep them at bay! Unfortunatley, Flamin' was a bit cranky and crooked after three nights of not sleeping well and somehow got souchie with Sarge over some silly perceived disagreement about Seahawks, of all things to argue about! After we paid our bill, she left ahead of rest of us and walked home most of way by herself, Sarge following at a distance, CL and I, hand-in-hand, behind. By time we reached PC they were side by side but not touching.
Back aboard, Flamin' disappeared into their cabin while Sarge poured himself a stiff measure of malt, while CL and I were brushing and flossing. I was going to join him for a tot but he grunted that he was off to bed so I shrugged, said goodnight, and went to read with Cora Lee. Starting to enjoy Drop Shot by Corben Harlan, (Not one of my favorites but I started to read him after we saw the French film based on his Tell No One, a wonderful story with all sorts of plot twists and turns.), so I polished off a few chapters before turning off overhead bedside lamp, poifectly placed for reading! CL already snoring gently so I drifted off, serenaded by her gentle puff, puff, puffs!
Chatillon-en-Bazois, Day 5, Friday, September 10th:
Up at 7:45am to do last night's glasses while kettle boiled for java and tea. Flamin' was up next and we cycled off to Boulangerie for croissants and bread, still warm to touch even after we cycled back to boat. Just a cup of coffee, for me, (Sarge fried up three slices of bread, no toaster, Newfoundlander that he is, filling the galley with smoke as he charred the sizzling slices!), before we cast off at 9:40am, through mist shrouded lagoon to first lock, (actually second at Chatillon-en-Bazois), at 9:46am. Cleared at 9:56pm.
Out of Chatillon, we motored along, the mist still shrouding the fields, cloaking the town's chateau with a ghostly mantle. Entered Mingot lock, second lock, at 10:19am, out, without incident, at 10:26am. Past Berniere, on port, to Orgue, 1&2. In first at 10:33am, out at 10:42am. After we had tied off, we off-loaded bikes and Flamin' and I made for Orgue 2. In there at 10:55am, cleared at 11:05am. Continued cycling, on to Monte-et-Marre, we helped with tying off and chatted with two German chaps in boat following us. One was originally from Berlin but now works as an architect in Zurich, the other still lives in Berlin, not farmfrom where we stayed in Charlottenburg! PC entered lock at 11: 14 and cleared it at 11:33am. We continued on to Chavance, our first set of double locks, 7,8, and automatic ones to boot! In at 11:50am and out at 12:05pm.
Tied up, sur l'herbe, in small lagoon before locks 4,5,6, as time for LK's lunch as well as ours. I managed to get some nettle stings on my right ankle as I was catching rope from CL. Couple of days ago, Flamin' did the same but in her case got quite a welt from sting, on her left hand. Needed some calamine lotion to take sting away and help swelling subside. We enjoyed a delicious sausage and tomatoe, (Andre's last), omelette, with this morning's fresh loaf, on rear deck, sun shining down with considerable heat. I have been using 60 sunblock and wearing my Gaelic College, (from 2007 trip to Newfoundland/Maritimes), hat while cycling or working on deck. Just as we finished our luncheon, LK arrived and we cast off to enter another set of automatic locks, installed, according to LK in 2006. In #4 at 1:00pm and exited #6 at 1:30pm.
Michele went back aboard after we helped cast off and CL cycled with me towards Bazolles 3. In at 2:01pm and out at 2:09pm. After that I took off down a side road to take a look at the village of Mouas. About two kilometers later, fairly good, steady incline, I discovered settlement was little more than a collection of farm houses and barns, some in disrepair, others proudly displaying new sloping, metal roofs. Took a snap of a lone horse next to fence where I turned around, enjoying decent down hill I had so recently climbed, being careful tom avoid rather large clumps of earth left on narrow road by what I assumed was some farm vehicle, probably a tractor, which had recently used thoroughfare.
I caught up to CL and PC at Bazolles 2. In there at 2:13pm and out at 2:21pm. Reasonably long haul to Baye and I rode past lock there to scope moorage as we thought we might overnight at campground there. Took a quick spin around grounds of facility and noted that many craft were tethered there before returning to lock. In at 2:50pm and out at 3:00pm. We loaded the bikes aboard as we were unsure of tow path ahead. Had to wait in lagoon beyond until 4:00pm as a series of three tunnels lay beyond. They are regulated by lights situated at each extremity of the approach cutting. Sarge had just backed PC into a berth, his first time and very well executed, when light turned green and we had to cast off again, at 4:05pm.
The cuttings are lined with substantial stone retaining walls and the temperature dropped a noticeable few degrees as we entered the virtual tunnel created by the overhanging tree branches. Lovely, almost beyond description, moving slowly through green air, into the first and longest, (758 m), tunnel, Tunnel de La Collancelle. Flamin' had to turn on running lights, mandated when traversing tunnels, and spotlight so that Sarge could navigate the narrow water course. Temperature dropped another few degrees once in tunnel and CL and I were glad of our jackets as we manned the bow, gaff at the ready. Not needed as Sarge steered a course straight down the middle of narrow waterway. Took us some time to get through as we did it at reduced speed, for obvious reasons. Our eyes soon adjusted to the thickening gloom and we imagined ourselves in the sewers beneath Paris, dripping walls on each side., shuddering to think what it must have been like to have been a prisoner, shivering and starving, without a glimmer of hope of ever being released, chained to the unrelentingly damp, weeping, cold stone, one's frigid lover, Death's mocking embrace, squeezing, constrictor like, the very breath of life from one's pneumonia clogged lungs.
Such baleful thoughts were quickly dispatched once we reached the tunnel's end, bursting into the almost sauna-like warmth of the cutting, free of the claustrophobic-making tunnel's narrowness and into the almost blinding light of the afternoon sun, slanting into the greenness of the deep cutting. The reprieve was brief, however, as we soon plunged into the forbidding maw of Tunnel de Mouas, (268 m), swallowed, albeit, by a tempered gloom, due to shorter distance. Still, glad for our jackets, CL and I stood at the ready in the prow, gaffs at hand, to steer Sarge between Scyalla and Charibdis, should that be necessary. No need as our trusty Captain held a steady course throughout and we breezed into the quiet water at the tunnel's end without mishap. But a minute or so later, we entered Tunnel de Breuilles, (212 m), and veterans that we now were paid little heed to the relatively short subterranean journey.
Out into bright sunshine, at 4:25pm, we followed the curve of the canal a short distance to come in sight of Port Brule, the last stop before a series of eleven locks, almost back-to-back, without any villages or camping amenities separating them. This being the case we decided to tie up, sur l'herbe, in front of a canal-side house, perched on then side of the bank, quite high above our top deck. The friendly inhabitants said that they could provide electricity but no water. Former was of more import to us as everyone needed to charge an electronic device, (Naively, we had assumed that barge would produce power while running but this was not the case. If we had bothered to ask we probably could have rented a converter to plug into 12v cigarette lighter outlet, (Aussies had done just this and kindly gave us the use of their device the night we had dinner together.), on dash of cabin.), of one sort or another. Sarge described a flawless approach and we tied off, sur l'herbe, close to 4:45pm, using a bollard and a spike of our own.
Once we were secured, Flamin' and Sarge went for a ride to neighbouring village of La Collancelle, an uphill ride of some consequence, initially. Cora Lee worked on dinner and I scribed. After she had prepared a cutting board of appetizers, cheese and sausage, and taken a bottle of white out of fridge, she took a shower. By time she was out and changed, Clan Sutherland returned, having dallied at a bistro in village to quaff a local beer.
We repaired to the quarter-deck to luxuriate in the late sun, drinking in the idyllic spot on the curve of the river, a weeping willow bowing its graceful branches into the water, a flotilla of ducks paddling, hopefully, nearby, and a sleek river otter describing lazy circles on the surface downstream. The Les Hauts d'Ecole, 2008, Crozes-Hermitage, Marsanne/Roussane, 13%, 9.8€, simply added to the magic of the day's end, its subtle tropical fruit and lingering minerality on the finish was like a soft, passionate kiss!
Mimi, the naughty kitten belonging to our landlady, had come aboard earlier, when the cyclisti were Tour de Francing, delighting us with both her dexterity and her insatiable curiosity. However, once she started to sharpen her claws on the upholstery, we had to banish her, closing all the windows except the top hatch. Shortly thereafter she appeared, poking her tiny head through the opening, trying to judge whether a flying squirrel leap from the hatch to the steering console below was within her repertoire. Guessing not, she made a continuous circuit of all the windows, crying pitifully at each one, wanting someone to grant her ingress. Shortly after we had regrouped for Happy Hour, she and one of her sisters appeared, much to Sarge's dismay as he is allergic to cats. Of course, Mimenheimer did nothing but try to entwine herself around his ankles!
Sarge had purchased a 75 cl, 8.5%, 3 Monts, Biere de Flandre, in Chatillon-en-Bazois, and he opened It, still thirsty after his grueling ride. I had a glass and liked its yeasty, slightly sweet flavour, needing Michaelo, our Belgian beer expert to tell us what we should be looking for in its amber depths. After about an hour chatting about day's events speculating on the morrow's possibilities, the Goils brought up the main course: a meat loaf, done in the oven, covered with vegetables in a tomatoe/garlic sauce, with pesto and herbs de Provence, and rice noodles. To compliment this culinary masterpiece, we opened the Saint-Joseph 2007 Esprit de Granit, 13%, 10€, one of our last Cave de Tain treasures. And a veritable treasure it was, its luxurious, supple finish, white pepper and violet flavors made us wish for cases and cases more! We toasted our Lucky Stars and the Super Sisterhood Chefs and lingered over every bite, every sip.
After the sun went down, air cooled off considerably so we cleared the dishes and Sarge dried while I washed, Goils read. After clearing up, S/F went back on deck and chatted with our landlady, Angelique and her eldest son, Sebatian. Her husband, the LK, was away at a Moto-Cross event, for the weekend. F/S invited Angelique for a drink and she joined us after she put her youngest child, 2 years old, to bed. Her English was remarkably good, certainly far better than my French, and we spent a fascinating evening learning about life on the canal. She tasted both our malts but preferred to have coffee so I brewed a thermos. One of the interesting facts we learned was that there were only five people living in the community, her three sons, she and her husband, during the winter. All the other homes are summer residences only. Ten people, in total, inhabit the next four kilometres. For a day or two, in January or February, the temperature can drop to -30C! From about November to March, canal is drained between Baye and Corbigny, if I understood correctly, to allow for maintenance work.
The town where Angelique lives is called Port Brule. So named because when the canal was being constructed, (in the early 1800's, I think, based on dates on the LK's houses, 1826/1827, etc.), initially to raft timber to Paris, with convict labour, the convicts rebelled, upset about their harsh treatment and intolerable living conditions, setting fire to the assembled logs. Quite a creme brule that would have been! What a delight to have the opportunity to get below the tourist's eye view, (How is that, Dear Reader, for a mixed metaphor?), of the local inhabitants and the countryside. Wishing Angelique goodnight, we all headed to bed ourselves. I tidied up galley, ready for morning, while I waited for CL to brush and floss. We both read for a bit and then it was time for Dreamville at just after 11:00pm.
Port Brule, Day 6, Saturday, September 11th:
Up at 7:17am to make cafe au lait with last night's overleft java! Cactus would be more than proud of me as I simmered concoction! Sun shining from get-go and no mist on river! I boiled water for CL's tea, using one Tetley's Orange Pekoe bag and her loose White Tea, strawberry flavoured, purchased in Brugge, along with special tea bags meant to use when not preparing beverage with a strainer. Both she and Sarge liked the combo so have followed the same recipe since Day 1.
I worked on CBD while others had a spot of breakfast, boiled eggs and fried bread, for Sarge only, Mimenheimer attracted by smoke billowing from fry pan, her nose twitching at the open front window! Gang went ashore after eating and i had a quick shower, taking advantage of hot water to wash yesterday's shorts and T-shirt in basin. Was out and dressed just before we were ready to cast off. Said hello and goodbye to Angelique whom had come aboard to retrieve a stowaway Mimenheimer, telling her how much we had enjoyed last night. Waved au revoir and steeled ourselves for heaviest day on canal staring us in the face with 14 locks between us and Sardy-les-our destination for lunch!
First four locks with Angelique's friend, Angelique, replacement LK. Port Brule, cast qoff 9:25, in/out, 9:37/9:43; Crain: 9:49/9:57; Putureau, 10:02/10:12; La Roche: 10:17/10:25.
Waved goodbye to Angelique Deux and made for next set of five locks: Demain: 10:29/10:39; Planchette de Belin: 10:40/10:45; Gros Bouillon, 10:46/10:53; Mondain, 10:55/11:05; Fussy: 11:07/11:14.
Fighting to clear as many locks as possible before noon, we steamed ahead, The Sisterhood on bikes, to Patureau de Volain: 11:15/11:23, where Flamin' had been chased by the LK's goose on an earlier recon mission. CL happy as a clam with downhill biking. Port Brule was the Great Divide of the Nivernais Canal system so from now on we would be dropping in each lock. Once we cleared ecluse, leaving CL to close gates with LK, Flamin' streaked ahead to Bellevue to await tying on: 11:25/11:32. We have worked out a pretty efficient system by now so waste little, if any, time, helping LK close/open gates, raise/lower sluice ports, as required. On board, Sarge and I have honed our casting off skills to the point where we can, with a lasso-like flick of the rope snap the line over the bollard! Ride 'em Cowboy! The Sisterhood really putting their backs into it as they used the large wooden beams attached to the gates to open and close them. We Don't Need No Stinkin' Ron Zelko Workout Regime!
Galloping at full throttle on to Pre Doyen: 11:35/11:44, the cavalry in hot pursuit, we had to wait in a small lagoon before Doyen as another bateau was coming upstream. Simply gorgeous day so enjoyed the brief respite from our arduous labour! Took advantage of lull to put more sun screen on my face and arms as well as shedding the shirt i'd worn over top of my cycling top. Le Crain having cleared lock, we entered at 11:55/12:05. Goils jumped pship to scurry ahead to scope out the local pottery artisans and craftsmen, now occupying once abandoned lock cottages.
Stopped for mandatory lunch break, tying up in lock itself, at Pre Ardent, 12:12pm. Goils had purchased some pottery. CL a mustard pot and a small bowl, both very attractive, while Flamin' purchased a colander. Lunch under the brolly on bridge consisted of tasty cold cuts, (ham and two different kinds of salami), carrot sticks and green salad with feta and Angelique's tomatoes, Andre's cukes. I helped bring dishes to galley, Sarge went for a quick ride and I brought CBD up to date. Sarge helped CL with dishes once he was back and gallery tidied, we readied ourselves for return of LK and the afternoon's ecluse gauntlet to begin!
LK closed gates at Pre Ardent at 1:15pm/1:24, and was late as he was eating cake with Les Deux Angeliques. Shortly after he arrived, so did Angelique, our hostess of night before, bearing chocolate cake and Creme Anglaise for us! Kissed her four times, as did Sarge, and we were off, waving goodbye once more!
Since i was riding and Sarge didn't keep lock times, I don't have ingress/egress numbers for next lock, Champ Cadoux, but arrived at following ecluse, Sardy, at 1:52, stopping to ask friendly woman at Tourist Info to make a dinner reservation at a Two Pot, Logis designation, at 7:30 in Corbigny, our night's destination as is a reasonably sized town and offers free tie-up with juice and agua! While waiting for lock to empty, I bought a T-shirt showing the one of the entrance cuts to the tunnels out of Baye.
No rest for the wicked and on past Sardy-les- to Champ du Chene: 2:02 but had to wait for LK until 2:13/2:19. On to Creuzet: 2:24/2:32, under bridge and then what we had all been waiting for, La Petite Corvee, our namesake! In at 2:37/2:45 with a bit of a break until Bois des Taureaux: 2:50/2:57. At this point, really had to re-evaluate my opinion of LK's job. let me tell,you, Dear Reader, for it is a very significant work-out to close the lock gates, then open the sluice gates and the open the gates, at the opposite end, and then close the gates, once again, once the boats are through, and then on to next lock! And all this is the baking sun!
On to Picampoix: 3:00/3:09 and not even time to catch one's breath as we were upon Surpaillis in no time at all to enter lock at 3:14/3:22 and then cycling madly to Pre Colas: 3:29/3:35. Just past next ecluse, Yonne: 3:41/349, and its bridge, the River Yonne enters the canal system. Past a modern looking aqueduct and on to Eugeny, locks 25&26. Here Sarge seemed to start suffering from su stroke as he failed to record any times. As we cleared Marcy I had a chance to chat with young LK and learned that he had just started this past August. He and his wife had lived and worked in both Paris and Lyon but preferred to live a simpler life in the country where they could spend more time with their daughter and three month old Bassett, Vic, whose ears dragging in the long grass beside the locks, delighted us no end. He has been assigned House #9, Fussy, on the system, but is currently living in Corbigny while he completes renovations on it. Rent is part of salary package but he is responsible for utilities.
On to Chaumot where we docked for the night, tying up at Locaboat dock where we were entitled to free water and electricity. Once Sarge did a very smooth, rear berth, we tied off, hooked up power cord and proceeded to fill water tank. As it was filling, we repaired to the quarter deck and toasted ourselves on the 28 lock day with a bottle of French La Goudale, 7.2%, Biere Blonde a l'Ancienne. This refreshing drop was followed in short order by a number of Heinekens and then Flamin' and Sarge cycled into Corbigny to scope the ville and see about arranging a taxi to take us in for dinner. While I scribed, CL swabbed the decks. Just as she was finished, chap from Locaboat Office came by to confirm that taxi would arrive to collect us at 7:00pm so F/S obviously were busy little campers.
Having brought CBD up-to-date, I took key for water faucet back to Office and waited for CL to finish showering before doing same myself.
Corbiny, Day 7, Sunday, September 12th:
Up at 7:57am to make my bowl of cafe au lait and put water on to boil for other's tea and java. Packed my iPad into my camel pack and set off for Corbigny. Flamin' had already left, annoyed when I brought up a point from last night's argument, telling me to go for a ride by myself. Did just that and pedaled along the tow path for a bit before heading up long slope into Chabigny, passing Flamin' on her way back to PC, with a fresh loaf in her basket, into Centre Ville to cafe where I had enjoyed a Pasti or two, Sarge two local beers, CL a glass of wine and Didier, our taxi driver, a small glass of wine, before dinner, and which, almost more importantly, provided free WiFi! I transferred latest, up-to-date CBD entries, sipping a jolt or two of espresso. When I'd answered a few emails, paid the 1.10€ for java, I headed back to boat. Crew were ready to cast off by time I arrived at mooring so I put on some sunscreen, took my hat, iPad and map and loaded them into the basket I took from other bike.
Cast off at about 10:15 and entered first lock, a double set, at Eugny: 10:25/10:33; 10:35/10:37. Then on to Marcy: 10:45/10:57, a horse and rider coming over the bridge there as we were just clearing lock.
Bit more of a break to Chaumont: 11:05/11:12, with village itself, off to port, Chitry-les-Mines to starboard. Under Pont-levis Germenay and into recluse Chitry: 11:36/11:34. Flamin' closed port lock gate while I was tying off. Back on bike to Marigny: 11:41/11:47, where there was a young, female student LK. Last stop before lunch was at Gravier: 11:50/11:56, where L'Yonne joins canal again. We tied off in small lagoon just beyond lock and rest of crew went to a small restaurant in lock house for lunch. In spite of all the riding and lock work, I was still feeling pretty full from last night's fairly substantial dinner so I decided to forgo their company and have a light snack, yogurt and fruit, and work on CBD.
Crew returned from lunch at 1:25pm, reporting a very good lunch and an interesting conversation with a Norwegian couple who have been traveling the locks for past ten years on vacation. They are planning to buy their own boat when they retire in five years. Cast off at 1:35, making for Mortes. Another young, female LK and three boats in ecluse. First time since start of trip! In at 1:42/1:51.p
At Pont-levis de Chazel at 2:00pm, and finally realized what "levis" meant. I had assumed that it had something to do with the canal bank, levee, but of course it means a raised bridge! We dismounted and crossed over to port and using a winding lever, similar to ones at locks, we cranked up our equivalent of a medieval draw bridge and let the flotilla through! Much easier to lower, as one would expect, and had it back down at 2:10 pm.
Back on bikes, Sauvigny on port, Combres on starboard, with a decent haul, over fairly rutted gravel and muddy clay track. As i was cycling along, it suddenly struck me why the canal banks were planted with large trees, with such precision. Aside from gorgeous aesthetics of vista, I presume the root structure reinforces the banks. At any rate, negotiated the puddles and ruts without mishap and arrived at Mont at 2:20pm, for a fairly long wait as there were three boats in lock, ahead of us. Once out, LK went ahead to Dirol to let them into lock there. Whether three will clear lock before LK returns, I haven idea. Shortly after the lock cleared here, it started to rain, not heavily but enough to cause us to seek shelter under some kindly trees. CL didn't have a jacket so I gave her mine, (I had inherited it from her back in Vancouver, a cast-off, so I suppose it only fitting that she use it to keep warm now!) Sky looks fairly grey and overcast ahead so am not sure, at this stage, what is in store. I'd like to continue to cycle but not in heavy rain.
A few minutes ago, lady from first boat, came to lock to ask us about delay. Norwegian, her name is Torild. Her husband, Nils, originally from Stockholm, is a manger in the Norwegian state liquor monopoly system and Torild mentioned that he has heard Jo Nesbo speak at one of their business conferences. Torild is reading Jo at moment and is also familiar with Pers Peterssen. Just before Torild went back tom her boat, Sarge came along to see what the Hell was goin' on and once informed, he and CL went back to boat. Rain has held off but breeze is still cool and quite steady. LK returned at 2:56pm but flotilla will still have to wait as there is a single boat coming upstream which will clear lock first.
Our flotilla entered lock at 3:15/3:22 and made quickly for Dirol: 3:28/3:34 and then past Pont-levis de Thoury, (ouvert), so we sped past to Pont-levis des Marais, which I raised for flotilla, and then Sarge tied up sur l'herbe in tiny lagoon beyond, in order to put my bike back on as it had started to rain reasonably heavily. Back aboard Sarge opened up throttle to try to catch other craft so that we could go through next three locks together before stopping at Tannay for night.
In a holding patten before Chatillon, Monceaux-le-Comte to starboard, Chateau Reconfert beyond. In ecluse at 4:06/4:17 and on to Laport with a bit of clear water for a bit over one kilometre. In at 4:38/4:47. Short hop to Moulin Brule: 4:55/5:05. Past St-Didier, stopping, in a holding pattern while Nils raised Pont-levis de St-Didier and once through, let Flamin' off to lower same. Bridge down at 5:09pm and Mate back aboard at 5:15, Sarge experiencing at tad of difficulty pulling alongside bank. Off tqowards Pont-levis de Curiot, permanently up so didn't have to stop, and docked at Tannay, village on port, at 5:25pm.
Once we tied off, we secured vessel and took road into Tannay, a very long grade uphill, (1.5K), enjoying the view, as we climbed, over the surrounding hills and valleys. Had to take off our jackets by the time we reached the Centre Ville and as Sarge said, it was as deserted as an abandoned film set. Bumped into a couple leaving their house and they told us everything was closed and directed us back down then hill to Hotel de Morvan, the very one we has passed on way up!
Hoofed it back down to bottom of very pretty avenue, lined with gorgeous Plane trees all the way to top, both sides, and poked our noses into bar to see what was available. Rather unfriendly, unhelpful chap inside finally let usmknow that we could sit on patio and grudgingly gave us a dish towel to wipe down chairs and table we chose to sit at. Still sopping from rain earlier that afternoon. It was just past 7:00pm when we belted back our first drinks: Pastis for me, white wine for Goils and a beer for Sarge. Sun had peeked through clouds and it was a lovely evening.
I had taken a look at the posted menu and suggested that it might be worth our while to eat here so I tracked down Mr Grizzle and determined that we could do so. Finished our drinks, a second Pastis for me, and went inside and that is when the re-run of Faulty Towers began! Mr Grizzle transmuted himself into Mr Flustered and simply couldn't seem to manGe to seat us. He kept dashing between the bar, through a set of doors and the kitchen, stage Left, muttering each time he passed, almost like the White Rabbit, "J'arrive!" The one couple, already seated, couldn't keepmstraight faces as all this unfolded in front of them. Finally, Basil seated us and managed to provide menus and a wine list. By the time we had decided what we wanted to order, a group of four Australians arrived and Basil completely ignored them while taking our orders, all the while correcting our French and insisting upon each dish in strict order. Cora Lee had chatted with one of the couples at one of the locks earlier that day and she had learned that they had been paid restaurant critics for a time. She was howling, could barely keep a straight face, at the thought of the evaluation Basil would receive!
A few minutes later, Mr Flustered plunked our house wine on the table, a bottle of white and one of red, both very acceptable, and then agonized over where to sit Aussies. Reluctantly, he told them to sit T the very table they had been standing beside for last 15 minutes. We didn't mind as we'd enjoyed a great chat with them while all Basil's seemingly mindless peregrinations were transpiring!
Once the ordeal of taking our order was over, wine poured, toasts made, Basil returned with out food, only to discover that we had not ordered the veal or the chicken of the lamb! It was intended form party of two French couples behind us, although it looked so tasty that was tempted to accept Basil's offer. He came back a number of times, during the course of the meal, to deliver items intended for other diners, much to the delight and amusement of everyone else in room. This being said, food was extremely well presented and delicious. Cora Lee had sole, Sarge a steak, Flamin' filet of canard and I received cod in Bourgignon sauce, yummsters! I thought I was ordering a beef stew and so when Basil brought me a fish knife I protested, causing him no end of anxiety until misunderstanding was cleared up. Our salads were similarly fresh and appetizing. Flamin' and I had ordered from a fixed menu so we had dessert included. Guess, Dear Reader, which one we chose? Right, Creme Brule! Not, perhaps, quite as tasty as some we'd had but delicious nonetheless. A carafe more of the house plonk and everyone was ready to head back to the boat.
Chuckling to those patrons still eating, we left, well pleased with both the cuisine and the wonderful comic routine of our befuddled and beleaguered waiter. It was almost worth its weight in gold to see the expression on his face and his entire body language when new customers would enter the room. Neither us nor the Aussies could contain ourselves at such moments. At our table, we regaled ourselves with concocting various scenarios that placed Basil in the predicament he found himself in: in one, a brother-in-law phoned him up and said that since the tourist season was basically over, would he mind working this Sunday, a quiet day at the best of times, when there is hardly any trade, anyway, and all you'll have to do is tend the small bar and Marie, the regular waitress can handle the rest. Of course, Marie, phoned in sick and Basil had never waited on tables before, etc., etc!
Still chuckling to ourselves as we made our way back, over the bridge, to our mooring, we were able to clamber aboard without mishap, not having brought along flashlight as we had fully intended to be back aboard for for dinner, long before dark. F/S were tired so they turned in right away. I did a few dishes while CL was brushing/flossing and then I did the same. Both of us read until justmbefore midnight and then it was lights out and into the Land of Nod!
Tannay, Day 8, Monday, September 13th:
Up at 7:50am to have a bowl of cafe au lait. By time I had boiled kettle and made tea, Flamin' was up and we off-loaded bikes and took a run into nearby Cuzy, hardly half a kilometre away, Sarge on his morning jog. Scoured village but no Boulangerie! We would have to cycle to Tannay back up the long, long one and a half K hill we walked yesterday. Since there was some bread left for Sarge's famous fried Newfy special, we decided to go for an earlier start and pick up more bread along with shopping we needed to do at some point during the day.
I worked on CBD while we waited for the return of our Captain. Sarge back at 8:55am and gave order to get under way.
Cast off at 9:10am, the fog dissipating but still a smokey presence over canal and surrounding countryside. I had wiped down bridge on upper deck when back from our brief ride and towel was sopping when I was finished. All our windows are thick with condensation when we awake. Only at Port Brule was this not the case, I believe.
Flamin and i made for the double locks, Tannay, 38 & 39, the villages of Champagne and Metz-le-Comte to starboard. In spite of shouting "A la Gouche!", to her, she headed right, typical for The Sisterhood, which always knows best, ending up on a cow path! We arrived at 9:20, sun burning through mist, deliciously warm on our shoulders. PC arrived at 9:30 and young, female LK, studying the History of Art in Dijon, and her two friendly pooches, Tartine and Begonia appeared to use semi-automatic lock gates to close ecluse at 9:31. Cleared first at 9:40 and directly into second at 9:41/9:43. I stayed to say goodbye to pooches and Flamin' raced ahead to Pont-levis de l'Arc and had bridge raised just as PC arrived at 9:48!
Met Gunnar and Eva Skogman, from Goteburg, on a cycling trip, averaging about 60K per day, when they stopped to ask directions to Breves, near bridge to Asnois. Their map wasn't as detailed as ours and they were headed in wrong direction! They cycled with us past Asnois, chatting all the while on the uninterrupted haul to Breves: 10:15/10:25, village itself off to starboard as we rounded a zig-zag to Esselier: 10:34/10:41
On to Villiers right beside its namesake, Villiiers-sur-Yonne: 10:59/11:05
Past Pont tournament de Villiers, (ouvert), to Cuncy where we had to tie off, awaiting the arrival of the Art de Vivre, a huge barge, capable of carrying 8 passengers an.d a crew of 4, hot tub near prow! Craft filled almost entire lock! Four crew: captain, chef, hostess and tour guide. 2000€ p/p! Anti-deluvian, preserved, almost embalmed babes aboard with unimaginable bee-hive hairdos! This was barge meant for Denise and Ken, friends back in Vancouver who had asked how many crew we would have when we told them about our proposed trip! Into lock at: 11:47/11:56.
This was the last lock before noon but we wanted to continue as far as possible before stopping so continued on, past Cuncy, on port, with a fairly long ride to Chantenot. Tied up, sur l'herbe: 12:15, to enjoy a fabulous lunch courtesy of CL: quiche, sausages and lettuce/tomatoe/radish/feta salad. Sarge went for a ride to scout locks ahead while I did dishes. Back digitating so long as my battery holds out. Down to 14% as I wrote!
Cast off at 1:05pm and into Chatenot: 1:14/1:21, and on to Armes: 1:46/1:53, village to port, rounding a zig-zag to Maladerie: 2:13/2:21. Since this was last lock before docking, Sarge instructed me to ride ahead to Clamecy to scope docking spot with water and juice. Found Nils and Torild already at municipal moorage and they indicated that there was space to dock behind them. PC had to wait for French couple we had been traveling behind for last few days to dock before berthing. I had indicated, from pier, that Sarge should back in but he misread my quite obvious hand signals and nosed in! Turned out for the best due to fact that our power line is located in stern and cord would not have reached if Sarge had backed in. Soon as we were secure, we took on water and there was quite a cuffuffle when hose popped out of tank and sprayed CL and inside of cabin!
I left shortly thereafter, walking first to La Poste for stamps and then to a bar with free WiFi. Happy as a clam, I plugged in my iPad, (battery down to 12%), and read/answered email and digitated CBD, sipping a Pastis, for an hour or so, before gang showed up to have a beer on patio. Informed me we had dinner reservations for 7:30pm and they left to drink back on boat! They had shopped for groceries and hootch so we were well provisioned. Another Pastis and a few more emails later then I took my leave, paying tab for everyone as I'd indicated to barkeep earlier. Followed a series of very narrow streets to descend into round-about near moorage to find hors d'eouvres and vino on flying bridge almost over. I managed to score dregs of the decent Cotes du Rhone purchased earlier and joined Sarge upstairs for a piece of cheese and few remaining crackers. As we chatted, Greg, part of Australian group in Faulty Towers fiasco, walked by and we invited him aboard for a drink. One thing led to another and soon Tony, Grogg's mate, joined us, and then Nils and Torild! Flamin' was having a nap but our witty repartee above woke her so she added her grumpy, sleep-deprived presence to the party.
CL left to have a quick shower, opening a Vacqueras before disappearing. Claire, Grogg's wife, and Elly, Antonio's long-suffering spouse, joined us after putting their own dinner on hold. We had a grand time visiting, getting to know a bit about each other. Grogg, the ever forthright Aussie, asked Nils if he was a butcher. When we first encountered Nils, we had all noticed the obvious prothesis he had on his right leg, starting below the knee, as well as a number of missing fingers. Nobody had commented until now. Nils just laughed and explained it was some birth defect or other but that it had not prevented him from doing anything. In fact, he is a better skier than Torild and was much more agile tying up, for example, than any of us!
I took a few snaps and handed out my card and then went to shower myself. Party continued without me as I could hear the raucous laughter over the noise of the water pump while spraying and soaping! Changed into appropriate apparel for Three Pot dinner ahead, I found guests had left for their own craft and our gang was clearing up. We left for restaurant at 7:25am, after securing PC, and were there in time for our reservation as place was literally just around the corner. While we waited to be seated, Torild and Nils arrived but were told that they could not be accommodated. Everyone was disappointed as we had really enjoyed their company and would certainly have liked to continue our earlier conversations. At any rate, they left in search of another spot and we were seated in the spacious, multiple-level dining room. As we pulled up our chairs we remarked to one another that there seemed to be plenty of space for our Norwegian friends but were not able to learn why they had been turned away.
Meal itself was wonderful, from amuse bouche, a broccoli based concoction, to the strips of toast meant to be dipped into two different sauces, for appetizers. Goils and I had all ordered a medallions of pork from the 22.50€ menu, while Sarge had decided to go for broke and ordered from the 38€ menu. We all waited to see what would appear next as nobody really knew what this particular menu would deliver. We had been wrong so many times before that we preferred to let the Fates deliver surprises! All went well and Sarge had a wonderful selection cheeses, from a trolly brought to the table, which he shared with everyone. Next, a wonderful chocolate soufflé appeared and he had to fight the Goils to get a spoonful of before it disappeared. I ordered another Pastis, (I'd had one at start of meal as an aperitif), but had to settle for a Pernod, while soufflé wars continued! Called for l'addition and took our leave, wending our way back to PC through quiet streets.
Snort of the Balvenie for the lads before everyone turned in. Read for a bit and then lights out.
Clamecy, Day 9, Tuesday, September 14th:
Up at 7:47am, putting my quilt over CL, at her request. She had been up during the night, reading, and, once chilled, she couldn't warm up, even back in bed! I had just heated up my cafe au lait when Flamin' popped her tousled head out the door of their cabin and asked if we were going to cycle for bread, sliced meat and and English paper for Sarge. We unloaded bikes. I had already wiped down seats although there was not as much dew or condensation as yesterday at Tannay. Short ride later, (being extra careful to negotiate a very tight corner at beginning of pier where an unfortunate Australian had toppled into canal, bike and all, injuring his elbow and head, (to what dire extent I don't know), to be fished out, apparently, not long before we docked ourselves), we crossed the bridge over canal we will when we leave, to a Boulangerie gang had scoped yesterday. Flamin' hoped to find some cinnamon buns Sarge had spied but none were to be had. Two raisin buns and a baguette later we retraced our steps into town, stopping for a fresh bunch of carrots and the International Herald Tribune at a small grocery store down the street from the Charcuterie where we purchased sliced salami and ham for lunch.
Back to PC and I had a quick chat with Torild and Nils before clambering aboard. Sarge was away on his morning run, Cl, snug as a bug in a rug, and Flamin' reading on her iPad in bed!
Cast off at 10:00am, rest of crew helping Sarge to turn boat around. Had to wait for about 15 minutes until LK opened a small bridge, much like one found in a railroad roundhouse, before opening the semi-automatic lock gates, at Les Jeux: 10:20/10:27, past the confluence of the Yonne and Beuvron, under the Pont de Bethleem, bypassing ecluse Clamecy-St-Roch as well as ecluse Foret, both retired, when I came upon a fairly rough, muddy track, quite cool under tree canopy, until I emerged into sunshine at Garenne where our LK was Aurelion, from day before at Chatenot. This was his assignment for the day, kept company by Artur, regular LK's Border Collie/German Shepherd/Husky mix, reminding me of Maggie, Steve's/Kathleen's lovely Border Collie, now, sadly, in Sheep Heaven! We'd gone, Steve and I, for many runs with her, chasing the ball we would throw ahead, retrieving from field and irrigation channel, her indefatigable spirit inspiring us to pick up our jogging pace!
Took a snap of Aurelion with Arthur doing tricks with a stick and then waved goodbye. In at 10:57/11:03 and then on to Basseville: 11:21/11:30, and chatted with Aussies in following boat. From The Blue Mountains, west of Sydney. Long haul to Pont-levies du Pousseaux, ahead of Flamin' who had jogged from last lock. I raised the bridge to allow PC passage and Flamin' resumed her run. Lowering bridge was more difficult than raising it, first time I'd encountered such a situation. On towards Coulanges where we tied up, sur l'herbe, as it was one minute past noon when PC arrived and LK's time for lunch.
We fared extremely well ourselves, with fresh bread, chevre cheese, cold cuts from this morning, tomatoes and carrots. More digitating after meal and then cast off right at 1:00pm and entered ecluse: 1:02/1:10. On to Crain, with Coulanges-sur-Yonne, off to port, village of Crain a little further along same side: 1:30/1:39.
Here bike path ended and one was forced to use highway. CL unhappy about this so put her bike back aboard and I cycled on alone and abandoned!
On past Beze (Porte de garde), and to Beze: 1:50/2:05. CL returned to Tour du Nivernais here. Past Lucy-sur-Yonne, on starboard, to Lucy: 2:20/2:31. Chatted with Americans in boat coming the opposite way, from New Hampshire, Primary held today! Cora Lee took off as I was helping LK close gates, racing ahead so that she could read her book, (Second Sight, Charles McCary), while waiting for PC to arrive.
Long haul to La Place and en route there, I passed six riders, three men, followed at a short distance, by three women. I assumed they were related and together, nodding Bonjour to each pack. At La Place we sat in the shade of a small tree and chatted. Shortly thereafter, one of the American, New Hampshire contingent came up to us and told us that there had been an accident on bike path and PC had stopped to be of assistance. We learned later that F/S had actually seen accident! Somehow, the three women cycling together had become entangled, causing everyone to crash. One of the unlucky ones, wearing glasses, had her eyebrow lacerated when part of the frame gashed her. Flamin' and Sarge headed into bank and rendered emergency first aid: a bag of ice cubes and bandages from our pristine First Aid Kit. Someone called someone with a vehicle and after F/S had washed the wound with bottled water, (one of the party insisting on paying 3€ to Sarge who put coins on tow path and cast off, his French not being sufficient to tell chap he was not going to take his money), they continued to La Place where we received more details: 2:51/2:59.
Never a dull moment and we proceeded, in an orderly fashion, to Chatelaine-Censoir: 3:32/3:39 and then on to Magny: 3:54/4:01, followed in short order by Rechimet, Merry-sur-Yonne, off to port: 4:14/4:22.
Another fairly long haul past the magnificent cliffs at Saussois, (garde), army personnel with red berets scaling the more than imposing rock faces with ropes, to the delight and consternation, I imagine, of cyclists and pedestrians on the tow path below. We reached Ravereau next, noting the graceful pair of swans gliding over the still water of an adjacent channel: 4:39/4:46.
On quickly past Mailly-le-Chateau (garde) to Parc: 5:08/5:16, making for Mailly-la-Ville, our destination for the night as services, water and hydro, were available. We cleared lock at 5:32/5:42 and Sarge sent me ahead to scope moorage. As soon as rounded corner of canal leading into town, I discovered that we had finally caught up with the Norwegians! They had left Clamecy before us and I didn't really expect to see them again! Unfortunately, no services were available, (other craft had occupied all available serviced moorage), so they had tied up, sur l'herbe. I thought we could squeeze in behind one boat, to enable us to hook up to power outlet, but Sarge was not convinced, so we decided to continue along canal, clearing as many locks as possible before 7:00pm.
A reasonably long ride past Mailly-la-Ville, (garde), to Sery: 5:59/6:04, Bessy-sur-Cure a long way to starboard, over well-tilled, rocky fields. Past tiny village of Sery, on starboard, to St-Maur:6:11/6:20 and the race was on to Dames: 6:26/6:32 to scope Pregilbert for a Boulangerie. I was sent ahead to reconnoitre but discovered, from a brief conversation with a clutch of women at an open doorway of first inhabited house I came across, that village did not possess such an
amenity. Back down hill towards canal, passing a small field containing about 30-35 large turkeys, I relayed bad news to PC and we steamed, full speed, ahead!
Through Pregilbert, (garde), and past village of Ste-Pallaye to ecluse Ste-Pallaye: 6:47/6:53, last lock before closing time. We continued on to tie up, sur l'herbe, about 150 M before Aignan, poised to make Auxerre on the morrow, the lock gods willing! Secured PC at 7:11pm. CL had been working on dinner for some time and smells from galley were more than mouth-watering. We opened a bottle of white, a Chalmcau, Bourgogne Chitry, 2009 Chardonnay, 12.5%, 3.65€, and a wonderfully refreshing drop after eight hours of cycling! Longest haul was about 5 or 6 K so not a great distance and one stopped at each lock to help LK and tie off/cast off, but still a pretty good physical effort. Am pleased to say that my legs, and more importantly, my hip, feel just fine.
Shortly thereafter, dinner was served, a wonderful pork chop, tomatoe and zucchini, cooked in white wine, dish that tasted even better than its divine aromas! Sarge opened a Puy Chanteroc, 2009 Cotes du Rhone, 13.5%, 4€, which, though young, was a wonderful pairing indeed. After enjoying the delicious repas, Flamin' somehow took offense about what I said about music she was playing on her iPad, and went into her sookie mode. More pained silence while table was cleared. Sarge and Flamin' did dishes while I digitated, catching up on day's activities. Gang regrouped around table and chatted about what "they"thought we might do over next few days on canal, as well as some possibilities for Gay Paree! i put forward the bold idea that one possibility might simply be to stay someplace for more than a night without trying to do everything, trying to see everything. Not much patience with this approach so, having stated my opinion, I went back to scribing. At 9:45pm, everyone was tired after long day, a 22 lock day, so we bade each other a curt goodnight and everyone repaired to their separate cabins to read. I stayed up a tad longer to plug in lock entries for next day, trying to keep one step ahead of the cruel CBD taskmaster!!!
St-Aignan, Day 10, Wednesday, September 15th:
Up at 7:57am to have a quick shower. Flamin' asked if I wants to cycle to Cravant, about 4K away but I declined as I wanted to cycle all the way to Auxerre, our destination for night, and preferred to work on CBD before we cast off. She departed and Sarge went for his run, CL into shower, and I sipped on my cafe au lait made with the last of Angelique's creme Anglais, basically a custard like sauce, but delicious with the java!
Gang back, Sarge boiled eggs for breakfast, fried his bread and we Cast off at 9:27am as soon as we saw LK at St-Aignan: 9:30/9:36. Under the Pont SNCF de Bazarnes to Maunoir: 9:42/9:48 then Rivottes: 10:18/10:25. It started to rain just after I pedaled off towards Vincelles, and I wondered if I would have to abandon my biking for day. Perservered, sheltering under a tree at Vincelles: 10:36/10:44, village Vincelottes off to starboard. Made ecluse at Vinccelottes: 11:06/11:18 and chatted with people on board boat already in lock and just departing as I cycled up. From Puerta Vallarta so hoped tom chat with them at next lock. Rain abated, just a sprinkle now, as I rode to Bailly: 11:37/11:44. Here we introduced ourselves and I learned that Karen had a large home, in a gated community near Punta Mita.
On to Belombre: 12:07, Champs-sur-Yonne and Toussac, to starboard, where we tied up in lock with our other two traveling companions for lunch, LK speeding away as soon as she had cleared lock of three boats traveling upstream. CL was cooking lunch, chicken legs wrapped in bacon, tomato and herbs; white beans with egg plant, garlic, and onions; boiled new potatoes! Sarge and Flamin' took off to use Wifi at a hotel across the street. Not sure if they will be back in time to eat before we have to clear lock, as it is 12:20pm as I scribe.
Flamin' and Sarge returned to PC at 1:15pm and we opened the bottle we purchased from the LK at Vincelottes: 2009 Domaine des Roncieres, Chablis, 13..5%, 6€, a more than poifect pairing for the absolutely delicious food! Cast off at 1:05/1:15 and on to Toussac: 1:32/1:40, where Karen gave The Sisterhood tips for our stay in Paris. She had lived and worked in a Paris for a number of years before returning to Mexico.
Long stretch of L'Yonne ahead, under Pont de Vaux, village of Vaux to port, and into Vaux: 2:10/2:18. Here Sarge asked me to go ahead, right into Auxerre itself to scope out moorage possibilities. Waving goodbye, I sped ahead, past village of Augy, on starboard, stopping at Augy: 2:36/2:44, (PC times recorded by El Capitaine), to snap a few pictures, then Preuilly: 3:07/3:15, to do the same, before stopping to snap a pair of swans, just up-river from an Olympic Kayak facility, according to sign, with quite a few youngsters screeching to each other across river on other bank where an obstacle course had been set up, and they were thrashing about, obviously enjoying themselves, in spite of their instructor's shouted warnings!
Further on, to outskirts of Auxerre, to stop at Batardeau: 3:29/3:37, to take pictures of last lock of the day, before making my way into town, crossing a bridge, Pont Paul Bert, snapping a few shots of Cathedrale St-Etienne, in middle, St-Pierre, on right, and Abbaye St-Germain, to right bank as I could see many boats tied up just beyond a large pedestrian bridge. I cycled up to Information Kiosk and found out where we could moor and basic costs, made a reservation, and took off back to Batardeau to await arrival of PC. They showed up at 3:29pm and I gave them instructions. Group from Mexico wanted to stay overnight as well so Karen off-loaded her bike and accompanied me back to moorage facility.
Shortly after she had inquired about moorage, etc., both boats arrived and I waved Sarge into berth against a barge which functions as a gift shop. We tied up and quickly hooked up power and water. Goils collected all the dirty towels and other laundry and went to do a couple of loads. Cheap at only 6€ per wash/6€ per dry so a paltry $24. Sarge and I were more than happy to waited until Berne to do laundry but we were afraid to risk the Wrath of The Sisterhood after the nasty debacle in Corbigny!
Once I took out recycling and loaded bike back on board, settled down to bring CBD up to date, who should motor alongside but The Norwegians! We are truly neighbours now as they are moored to us for next two nights! Glad to see them as we thought we might never bump into them again, given everyone's different schedules. Will have drinks together, before going for dinner in town. Goils just left, 4:45pm, to make reservations. Not sure how many pots they have in mind!
One of benefits of this particular moorage is that we have "free" WiFi so I'll be able to catch up on email, banking, etc. Unfortunately, I was not able to sign on! Flamin' had not said anything about a password and after repeated, unsuccessful efforts, I went to office and received password: Yonne! Name of river we were on. Still unable to sign on so decided to go to store as I wanted to buy a bottle of Pastis and a few other things: dental floss, lip balm and fuzzy water. Stopped at office on way and discovered all psswd letters had to be lower case!
On to store, just a few minutes away, stopping at Geldautomat across street to load up my depleted piggy bank with €, and then to scour aisles for needed items. Found everything I wanted as well as two small rounds of Camembert: Coeur de Lion, 1.55€, Le Rustique, 1.68€. By way of comparison, dental floss cost 2.93€, lip balm 2.04€ and 51 Pastis, 1L, 45%, 15.02€. I suppose if you eat enough of this deliciously creamy cheese your lips stay soft and if you drink enough Pastis you don't have to brush or floss!
Back aboard, Sarge and I digitated, (I was now able to sign on!), for a bit and then I suggested a Pastis. Set about putting out one of rounds with crackers. I asked Sarge to invite Nils and Torild to join us and then came over, bringing a bowl of radishes, elongated ones, with a bottle of the same Chablis we had purchased from LK earlier that afternoon. Lads drank Pastis while Torild preferred white wine. I cut up an apple and dipped my slice in platter of salt Nils had brought for radishes. Mom liked to do this and I had picked it up from her. Nils quite liked the combo and I had cut up another apple! We had a wonderful time getting to know one another and had made quite a dent in bottle of Pastis by time Power Shoppers were back. They joined us for wine and second round of Camembert and Flamin' modeled her new purchases, much to Sarge's consternation. Not so much from the financial point of view, but rather from the logistics slant. He doesn't know how she will manage to get everything she has acquired since arriving back home!
Anyway, it was soon time to get ready for dinner, (Torild and Nils were joining us and we had made reservations for 6 this time!), so I had a quick shower, using the T-shirt I had been wearing as a towel. All our laundry was still in dryer, at Office, which closed at 7:00pm, well before everything was dry! Nils had amired my T-shirt earlier. One that I'd picked up in California quite a few years ago, showing about 15 different varietal wine stains. Cora Lee, Fashion Policia Extraordinaire, has been at me, constantly, to get rid of it, disliking the stained collar and sleeve ends. Poifect time to please both parties so I kissed my favorite Tee goodbye, after drying myself off, wishing it a happy life in Oslo, to be worn by Nils in his managerial role at the State Liquor Store, Vinmonopolet, he is responsible for.
We locked up our respective boats and headed over pedestrian bridge into Auxerre, along quite narrow streets, enjoying the soft evening air, fresh and clean after the earlier drizzle. Made for Hotel le Seignelay, a One Pot according to our 2010 Logis. Once seated, we noticed our Aussie friends, Sweet Lorraine and Enzo Stuarti, Penelope and Mathias, seated across room. Chatted for a bit, finding out about their travels since we'd last seen them. Nils ordered two carafes of local house white and it was great. Most of gang ordered fish but I decided on veal. Green salad with pate was delicious, as was veal. More visiting over dinner and Nils was only one to order dessert, fresh fruit brought to table on a large woven platter.he chose an apple and some grapes and we all watched him peel the apple, a "must" he insisted, in France!
Said goodbye to Aussies, (Stuart had already stumbled home, a bit worse for wear from day's intake of hootch!), paid or bill and meandered home, retracing our earlier route. Chatted with Nils about the possibility of a house exchange at some point in the future as we'd like to visit Norway and Vancouver attracts them. On pedestrian bridge we stopped to drink in magnificent city skyline, with cathedral, church and abbey illuminated against rest of darkened buildings, imparting a soft glow to the low cloud cover. Quite a sight to behold, Dear Reader!
Everyone was more than ready for bed so we said goodnight to one another. Taking advantage of WiFi access, I stayed up for an hour or so, sipping one last Pastis while sending email. By time I had brushed and flossed I was to relaxed and sleepy to read so I crawled under comforter and was soon asleep, thinking, momentarily, of majestic buildings standing guard across the way.
Auxerre, Day 11, Thursday, September 16th:
Lazy sleep-in until 8:15am as we had no first lock to make by 9:00am. I made a fresh thermos of java and wrote postcards as CL had monopolized my iPad. Goils were planning to explore city as soon as they had a bite for breakfast. Sarge collected laundry that had been dried and then went for his run. I had another cup of java with a bowl of yogurt, sliced peach and granola. Digitated, stopping tom chat with Nils. Unfortunately, the bilge pump stopped working, (latest of many problems), and they had to call for a technician. Service is not too bad but wait disrupts the day. Torild was sitting on deck, ducks and swans swimming of their bow, other boats passing nearby. Lovely morning in spite of engine trouble.
After checking to see if laundry was done, (it wasn't!), Sarge helped me lift bike off PC and I set out to explore town. Cycled over Pont Paul-Bert and headed uphill on Rue du Pont, climbing in lowest gear through Place des Veens, along a lovely street, lined with flower baskets, chic boutiques offering their wares for block after block. After about half an hour I found myself on what I believed to be the northwest outskirts of city so turned around, enjoying letting gravity do all the work. Stopped at a war memorial, in a small, cobblestone square, lovely horse chestnut trees off to one side, dedicated to the Jews deported from the city and environs, I suspect, between 1940-1945. Names were engraved on four sides of a limestone pillar, with a cluster of figures, in obvious agony, reaching for help, arms and hands extended and beseeching, at the base. Very simple and unadorned but quite moving.
On, a little further, to a memorial to the fallen soldiers of 1914-18 with a grass, tree lined esplanade beyond, stretching into distance, another statue at opposite end.
Back into Centre Ville, taking a circuitous route, basically following my nose and the occasional directions from friendly locals to arrive at Abbaye St-Germain, the illuminated building on the left as one looks back at the city's skyline of a night. Pure delight to walk around inside, marveling at the soaring arches but what was even more unexpected was the Crypte below the church floor. This area has obviously been excavated and turned into an exceptionally interesting museum of sorts. Most of the floor consists of metal grating which allows one to see to the exposed crypts and sarcophogi below. Unfortunately for me, all the exhibits were in French, so I was able to glean but little from the descriptions provided. Nevertheless, I think many of the tombs dated from the 5th Century.
Back on my trusty steed and taking narrow streets, (usually going the wrong way on a one way!), I made it to Cathedrale St-Etienne, the largest of the churches, (situated in the middle), illuminated at night. While impressive, simply because the stunning architecture and incredible carving adorning so many surfaces is simply hard to believe, I found the Abbaye to have had a more esthetically pleasing interior. On to St-Pierre, last church, on far left, but was disappointed to find it closed, undergoing renovations. Took a few snaps and then headed back to PC for a spot of lunch.
Heated up some overlefts, white beans and potatoes with a chicken leg/thigh, listening to French radio. For dessert had a bowl of cafe au lait with Nutella on bread! After doing dishes I picked up our laundry, finally dried, and then chatted with Nils, just back from their day in town. He told me about a small wine shop they had stumbled upon so I thought that I'd take a look at it after trying to find St-Eusebe, church I thought was third of illuminated ones. Crossed back over Pont Paul-Bert and Rue du Pont took me right to door. As it turned out, I had been there earlier but had approached from the other side and had not noticed its tower. Quite visible, of course, from other vantage points, especially at night. Furthermore, it was not St-Eusebe but rather St-Pierre, finally clearing up difficulty I had experienced trying to place the three buildings I had located on a map of the town relative to mental picture I had of them from night view. Twisting, narrow streets of inner city did not help either, especially w.hen the many one-ways often took the befuddled tourist in directions quite opposite to way desired!
At any rate, snapped a few more pics of tower and took of to locate Cave, climbing up fairly steep Rue Joubert, a friendly chap I accosted near church, had directed me towards, indicating, with a laugh that I was about to climb Everest! After reaching Base Camp, in this case, square in front of Hotel De Ville, I was literally escorted to door of wine shop by the colleague of chap I'd asked directions from at a high end optician's. Cannot get over how friendly and helpful everyone has been, given reputation French seemed to have had at one point for refusing to accommodate tourists.
Lady in wine shop was very helpful and suggested three Pinots and a Chablis, since I possess not a scrap of knowledge or familiarity with these regional wines and their producers. Pleased with my purchases I whizzed downhill, carefully, as some of cobblestones are a bit uneven, meeting Flamin' and Sarge along the way. Stopped to chat about dinner reservations and then waved goodbye as they wanted to wander more of town.
Back at PC I unloaded my wine and then took off for grocery store but a block or so away. Picked up few essentials we needed for rest of trip and enjoyed running my eyes over shelves and shelves and shelves of cheese, reminding me of the empty, colourful Camembert boxes Cactus and Donna Florida have atop the moulding encircling their kitchen! Back to the boat and poured myself a Pastis while I beavered away at CBD, Sarge sipping a beer and reading his paper on bridge. Not long and the Dreaded Aussies came by! They were moored across river and had come to use showers which are part of office complex. Antonio was out first and joined Sarge on quarter deck. I came up a few minutes later and very soon Torild and Nils enlarged the group, followed by Elly-Mae. Claire-de-Lune borrowed one of our bikes and went to collect Grogg who was still on their boat. Shortly after they climbed aboard, Coral Lee appeared on the pedestrian bridge and everyone hooted and hollered at her! She had been off having a pedicure/manicure and a haircut!
Laden with more purchases, she joined our by now even more boisterous group.
Nils had brought a William Fevre, 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, AC Saint-Bris, 12%, and it was one of best SB we'd had to date, crisp, subtle hint of grass with a slight touch of minerality on the clean finish. Sarge opened a La Club DES Sommeliers, 2008 Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune, 13%, and both went very well with the two small rounds of absolutely delicious cheese the gang had picked up earlier in a small shop, (obviously not a Monty Python franchise!), in town. After Cora Lee showered and changed, I did the same and by time I was ready, Aussies had departed.
We had reservations for 7:30pm at La P'tite Beursaude, (Cuisine de Terroir), although it was not Goils first choice. Place they had originally decided upon was closed that evening for a private function but chef/owner recommended LPB. Turned out to be a real find! Quite a small place, cosy with very friendly, efficient female staff. Nils ordered a Christian Memart, Bourgogoune, 2008 Hautes Cotes de-Beaune, 12% while Flamin' and I wanted to try the M. Chapoutier 2008 Cotes-du-Rhone, 13.5%, both 22€. (interestingly enough M. Chapoutier has started to include Braille on his labels. Nils pointed this out a I don't think we would have noticed otherwise.) It was Nils' opined that the Syrah would overpower the food but it did not, at least as far as I was concerned. Still, pleased to try the Pinot alongside it. Both delicious, elegant.
Meal was probably best we'd eaten. Lovely fluffy, puff balls for bread and salads were wonderful. Mine was a green salad with diced local sausage, (andouillette, is the term, I believe), and a slightly tart, creamy dressing. Flamin' and I both ordered filet of canard and it was poifect! CL had chicken and was so enamored of it that she refused to share. Noodles which came with duck were piping hot and slippery smooth delicioso! Creme Brulee was tops, lacy crust not too, too thick, custard a dream. Well pleased, we thanked the waitress, paid our bill and hurried up the hill to Cathedrale St-Etienne where we had arranged to meet Aussies.
At 9:30pm there was a so called "light show" inside, with music and a commentary about the history of the building. For 5€ we received a set of headphones so we could listen to the programme in English. It was fascinating to listen to the colourful political, religious and construction history of the building unfold, different portions of the spectacular interior being illuminated as the text was narrated. Quite amusing as well, to hear the English translation, in a very British accent, juxtaposed with the French which we could hear, slightly delayed, finishing after our characters had spoken their lines. Went on for an hour and all of us were q bit chilled by the end. Can only imagine what it must have been like in the dead of winter, centuries ago. The programme featured prominent saints and bishops, nobles and kings, builders and architects, commoners and dukes, their lives somehow entwined with the cathedral, from its very beginning in the 5th Century, through its many destructions through fire or religious zeal, to its present state, around the 18th Century, I believe.
Handed back our headphones and made our way back to Petite Corvee, stopping on pedestrian bridge to snap a number of shots of illuminated churches. Sarge and I sampled the latest malt he had picked up earlier in the day: Old Malt Cask, 11 year old Highland Park, 50%, 35-40€, before turning in for the night. Glorious end to a more than glorious day!
Auxerre, Day 12, Friday, September 17th:
Up at 7:47am when Nils rocked our boat, going to the Boulangerie for croissants! Made my cafe au lait and was reading email by time rest of sleepy heads were upa nd about. Flamin' took off to have her java there, Cora Lee finished packing up her
postal carton, third of trip, summer clothes and shoes, (preferring to wear her latest purchases!), to send back to Vancouver and Sarge went form his morning run. I continued to digitate, amidst all the comings and goings, helping Sarge with water hose when he was back from his run. After he had showered, we met Antonio and Grogg at bottom of pedestrian bridge and we walked into town to liquor store Sarge had happened upon yesterday. I picked up a Bruichladdich Norrie Campbell Tribute Botling, 3D3-Third Edition, 46%, 49€, something Imh
Ave not seen for years, other than in Gavin's collection, my bottle but a smidgeon left! Will need malt for Berne and its hard core tipplers!
Continued on through town, uphill, to find the weekly market and stroll the booths. I picked up a tablecloth for 10€, basically same design as Flamin's, but smaller and not the same quality. This one is more of an everyday, utilitarian model, wine stain resistant! On through rest of clothing stalls to food area, enjoying all the arrayed, fresh seafood. Cuts of meat and endless cheeses! Back towards entrance to market, we bumped into Goils, happy with all their recent spoils. We chatted briefly and then said goodbye, agreeing to meet back at PC before 1:00pm to cast off. Lads repaired to a cafe near Hotel du Ville and sat outside to quaff Pastis, Groggster and I, wheat beer Antonio and Sarge. Three rounds later we toddler off back to boat, actually taking very same route we had used last night, coming home from Cathedrale. Said goodbye to our Aussie mates on the Quay, hoping to see them, either in Brisabne or Vancouver, in the next few years. Walked back ogre pedestrian bridge to boat and made ready to cast off as soon as Goils made an appearance.
I checked email and finished off yesterday's CBD entry just as we spied our respective spice coming over bridge. We cast off at 1:06pm and made our way under Pont Jean-Moreau and Pont de la Tournelle towards first lock, but had to stay in a holding pattern at La Chainette until 1:30, as LK was obviously having a bit on the side. Out at 1:40. Locks this side of Auxerre are quite a bit larger, to accommodate monstrous barges, examples of which we'd seen berthed across river from us in Auxerre. Due to size, it takes longer for basin to empty. Sluice gate mechanisms are different as well. LK uses a long lever to raise/lower sluice gates, two per gate, as gates themselves are quite a bit larger and, so far, are opened/closed automatically.
On to L'Ile Brulee: 1:45/1:54 and under Pont Nord to Dumonts: 2:05/2:22, Bois des Chenez to port. These larger locks are not nearly as much fun, far less work, of course, but one doesn't have the same opportunity to help with gates and otherwise interact with LK. As well, we are, so far, sole craft traveling north and have not shared a lock with other travelers. Surprising how quickly one becomes used to the friendly, if necessarily brief chats one exchanged with the crew of other boats, moored ahead or behind, or else leaving a lock while we waited to take their place. Furthermore, locks are much farther apart on this section of the canal system. At Auxerre we left the Canal du Nivernais behind and are now navigating L'Yonne itself. Passageway on the river, at this point, is much wider than in the canal. Can't really complain as I now have more time and opportunity to work on CBD! Decided not to bike today as there is not a paved tow path to follow. Flamin' rode for a bit out of Auxerre but put her bike back on PC,at third lock, complaining about traffic on road and rutted cow track that followed river. Hope to tie up in time to go for a ride before dinner.
On to Boisseaux: 2:34/2:48, la Garenne to starboard, and under Pont du Moneteua into Monteteau: 3:00/3:15. Longest stretch ever, ahead as we passed le Gue de la Baume, on starboard, and then under Pont de l'Autoroute A6, (one we were on when we drove from Parigi to Chabeuil), to Gurgy, off to starboard, past a Portes de Garde and under Pont de Gurgy, to enter the Derivation Gurgy, leaving l'Yonne to meander to port. Long, long stretch of straight running ahead, canal fairly shallow at edges, banks eroding quite noticeably in places. Under Pont des Chaumes and then Pont Biais d'Appoigny to Neron: 3:50/4:05
Another long, straight stretch towards Raveuse, Camp de Chemilly to starboard. Arrived at Raveuse: 4:15/4:27. Bit of excitement shortly after foreward line was thrown ashore by Cora Lee. As he has done for many of the locks, Sarge hopped off, leaving boat in neutral to pull it alongside. However, in these larger locks, the current is much stronger when the sluice gates are opened and it swung PC completely around, facing the direction we had come from! LK was not pleased: "" clambered ashore, Sarge returned to helm. Reversing, he was able to take craft out enough to allow me pull her nose around and we were back where we were supposed to be!
Under Pont de Raveuse to rejoin L'Yonne, Bois des Gauzis to starboard, enveloping Bassou: 4:37/4:48. Following L'Yonne, under Pont de Bassou, le Saucy to starboard, with nothing but smooth sailing until la Graviere, les Grandes Noyers to port: 5:11/5:24.
Out of lock to pass under Pont de Migennes and then Pont Charmoy. Last bridge of day, Pont SNCF de Migennes before turning sharply to starboard to enter Canal de Bourgogne, mooring, with power and water, not far from double locks at Laroche: 5:11/5:24. We had decided to stay overnight as we wanted the chance to explore another small town before reaching Joigny, our final destination, on the morrow. We had arranged, en route, to pick up our rental car on Saturday afternoon, as opposed to Monday morning, so that we could take a day trip into neighboring wine region on Sunday. Depending on when we were actually able to take possession of vehicle, (not until 2:00pm at the earliest), we were hoping to try to wine taste on Saturday as well. Furthermore, already having car meant that we would be able to leave for Berne as soon as we had turned Petite Corvee over to Locaboat and received credit for damage deposit.
Lock here was most impressive as we felt we were at the bottom of the Grand Canyon upon entering its intimidating maw! LK lowered a line with a hook on the end to which we attached our own mooring lines, it being impossible to throw them to him, or otherwise scale the imposing walls, no steps or ladders here! Once he opened the sluice gates, the torrents rushed in to fill the lock surprisingly quickly, given its enormous capacity. We were soon bobbing toward the top, rocked by the turbulent current, and Sarge commanded me to gomon ahead, on foot, to reconnoitre moorage. I hopped ashore and made for the Le Boat Office, obviously a major facility the rival company to Locaboat. Upon reaching my goal, whom should I encounter but Mad Mathias, chatting with facility manager. We greeted each other and manager directed me to moorage location. Telling MM we'd catch up later, I scoped the spot indicated and waited for PC to arrive. Few minutes later she cleared the lock and Sarge made a very neat approach to b.earth in a space just inches larger than the length of our craft! Docked at 6:06pm
Securely tied, we hooked up power line and left to explore town. Goils went in search of a restaurant, I for Internet connectivity and Sarge tom quaff beer with his Aussie mates. I cycled the short distance into town. Discovered it was quite a small village and possibilities looked dim for WiFi. After a few stops to ask locals, I did find a Green Grocer's with three terminals in a small room behind main part of shop, 2€/hour, open until 11:30pm, so there if needed. Bumped into Goils right outside store and they informed me that prospects for restaurants, other than pizza and kebab, were not promising. Waving goodbye and wishing them luck, I rode on, happening upon a clutch of Australians, (My God, they are everywhere on the canals!), and chatted with them. Hailing from The Blue Mountains, (second party we'd encountered from Penrith), they had made a reservation at the small restaurant not far from the moorage facility. Asking for their names, so that I could cancel their reservation, in case we, weren't able to obtain one, I cycled to Restaurant au Canal and discovered that we didn't need to make a booking since we were only a party of four.
Stopped to say hello to Aussies and chatted for a bit before heading back to boat to have a shower. As I was locking my bike to a pole, two ladies stopped to ask me something. After a bit of translation, I determined they were trying to understand why there were no swans in the lagoon. Not being a resident, I had no idea, of course, but assured them that we had seen numerous pairs along the canal. We talked, quite pleasantly and animatedly for a few minutes, each in our broken second tongues, one of the women telling me she had enjoyed her trip to Montreal, Quebec and Niagara Falls, immensely. I wished, at the time, that I could have snapped my fingers and have had Sarge appear, in full dress serge! Bidding one another goodbye, I was just about to climb aboard, when Aussies I'd talked to earlier, sauntered towards PC. Stopping to say a few more words, I was able to discover that one of the party knew Ben Lockett's father, (Ben is the husband of Adina Bradbury, youngest daughter of Ania and Gerry Bradbury, from Sydney.), Brett, I believe, who manages a Bottle Shop in Penrith. In 2003, Ben and his dad invited me to a wonderful tasting of New Zealand wines, held for hospitality industry. I couldn't believe the sheer number of wines available to taste and decided to sample only the most expensive as a way tom find my way through the hundreds and hundreds available!) They left to make their way to the restaurant and I went to shower.
Sarge returned while I was still rinsing myself and Goils a few minutes later. They repaired to Quarter Deck to sip on the Rose Sarge had bought in Auxerre at same shop where I found the Bruichladdich, earlier that morning. A most refreshing drop it was, dry with a lovely, slightly bitter finish: 2009 Domaine La Remejeanne, Cote du Rhone, Cote Levant, 14%, 6€, and some tasty Camembert I'd picked up day before. I joined them and we enjoyed the magnificent sunset and burnished cloud formations as we quaffed and nibbled. Close to 8:00pm we secured PC and strolled to the restaurant. Blue Mountaineers were still eating so we introduced ourselves, all around and asked for dinner suggestions before taking our seats. While the place was quite unpretentious, it was more than a delight. The waitress, same individual I'd talked to earlier about reservations, was very friendly and attentive. We settled on a Domaine Seguinot, Chablis 1er Cru, Fourchaume, 13%, 28€, "sensual et complex", according to brochure waitress gave us! In fact, it was an apt description. Quite a generous omouthful of fruit on first sip which lingered, briefly, before closing with a luscious finish. Goils had Gazzpaccio with avocado purée, with a bit of a kick, on toast; Sarge, pate with green salad; my salad was topped with sliced, roasted red peppers, together with melted rounds of Camembert on toasted bread slices. I actually thought that the cheese was a poached egg at first sight, since they had been listed on menu as an appetizer as well! For main course, Goils ordered minced chicken, stuffed inside a sausage skin of sorts, on a bed noodles; Sarge a filet of cod on a bed osf mashed potatoes; as far as I was concerned, my dish was the piece dr resistance, Lamb kidneys sauteed in cognac! Rest were appalled with my choice but I rated them second only to best ever, for me, eaten at Heathrow in 1968! Sarge, I must admit, tried a slice of kidney and agreed that it was delicious indeed!
Dessert was a delicate, subtle, creme caramel for everyone except Sarge who went for chocolate mousse. All were achingly delicious, but I preferred creme caramel to finish meal as it was much lighter and chocolate bit too unrelieved, given large portion. Called for l'addition, thanked our kind waitress and strolled back to PC. Sarge polished off last of Laphroig but I was feeling fine without a nightcap so said goodnight and readied myself for bed, reading for an hour or so, CL glued to Flamin' iPod, reading one of her eBooks! Drifted off, listening to the sound of the SNCF trains rolling past on opposite side of canal, reminding me of summers in Rivers, Manitoba, when I stayed with my grandparents, sleeping in the attic of their house, not far from CNR tracks.
Megennes, Day 13, Saturday, September 18th:
Up at 7:46am to boil water for a thermos of coffee. Prepared tea for others while waiting for kettle to sing. Flamin' and Sarge went for a run and CL read while having her first cuppa, then two blocks to Boulangerie for fresh loaf. By time she was back, F/S had showered and changed. Flamin' fried up some bread and we munched it, slathered with Andre's apricot jam, while we prepared to cast off. Threw off the lines at 9:03am and idled in lagoon for a few minutes before LK opened gates: 9:10/9:28. Chatted with young man while basin was draining and he informed us that the water was evacuated through a set of large, underground pipes, off to starboard. Both Sarge and I had been waiting for him to open sluices ahead of us but boat started to sink while he was at opposite end of lock. Quite fascinating to learn about the many different lock types and the mechanisms which are employed, whether original techniques/equipment or more modern innovations. This lock, for example, had two large steering wheels which LK used to open/close gates, while sluice gates were controlled electronically, from a panel at one end of lock.
Waving goodbye to LK, we joined L'Yonne almost as soon as we cleared lock and steamed under Pont de Laroche, Laroche-St-Cydroine to starboard, making for Epinaeau, largest lock we had encountered so far. It could easily have accommodated three of the largest barges we had seen at various times. Tied up easily as difference between water level and boat deck is but a foot or less. Sun was shining although breeze was still cool. In at 9:44/9:53 and were off in search of the last lock of journey. Past St-Cydroine and Pechoir, both on starboard, and la Perriere Ancien barrage, again on starboard, Ancienne recluse, on port, to Pechoir: 10:17/10:28, noting swans floating gracefully in spillway current. And then on to Joigny itself. Rounding two bends in the river, we delighted in our first view of the picture perfect town, nestled into a hillside, surrounded by a blanket of vineyards, church spires and a tower, proudly delineating the skyline. Under Pont de-Joigny, we tied up at Quai du Port au Bois, Locaboat's moorage facility, at 10:55am, somewhat wistfully, as we would not cast off again. The canal part of the adventure was over, although we would spend the next two night aboard.
Once powered and watered, we secured PC and set off, across Pont de-Joigny, to scope Saturday market. Wandered the stalls set up in the large permanent structure, fruit, vegetables, arrayed in colorful profusion. Passing by one olive/nut vendor, we recognized staff as people we had purchased hazelnuts from in Auxerre the day before. As I had imagined, many of these vendors follow a weekly market route in the region, moving from town to village each day of the week. I also imagine that they target the larger centers on the weekends but I may well be wrong in this assumption. Cora Lee bought some delicious looking tomatoes and we headed into town itself.
Climbed street leading up from bridge and found a Tourist Info Centre. Scored a small map of local wine route and location of an Internet Cafe. Found the place not far along but didn't particularly like the rate, (4€/hour), so asked if other access was available. Only at McDonalds! Anyway, continued on up hill, liking the narrow, cobbled streets, often lined with houses of timber, reminders of the days when the canals were created in order to transport timber to Paris for firewood! On to Eglise St-Jean, the largest edifice gracing the hilltop and the rest of the town, for that matter. Not quite as magnificent as those of Auxerre but still a wonder to behold, built, as it was, in the second half of the 16th Century.
Back down the hill to find a tiny, hole-in-the-wall restaurant where we decided to have lunch. Beer for Sarge, Pastis for me, water for Goils. Fixed menu, (10€), was a steal: lettuce with strips of chicken breast, tangy mustard dressing; beef brochette with a pot of cooked tomatoe/zucchini and a scoop of rice; five different slices of local cheese or a caramel pudding. Flamin' and I opted for cheese plate, CL/S for pudding. Both were delicious but consensus was that cheese won out! Well satisfied, we took off, across Pont de-Joigny, in search of Restaurant Paris de Nice, (Goils were still on their Logis Three Pot kick), and McDonalds as we n.eeded to confirm car rental. Found restaurant and left CL to deal with reservation for tonight's dinner while rest of us hoofed about 2 K before we finally located the Golden Arches. Flamin' and I signed on and Sarge went to legitimize our access, buying espressos and tea! They left after about 20 minutes and we agreed to meet back at PC once they had collected car. I stayed about 15 minutes longer and then returned myna different, shorter route, to boat, tom find it locked. Key was under folded deck umbrella so I experienced no difficulty gaining access.
Cora Lee had been back as tomatoes were on galley counter. Whether F/S had returned with car, before me, and three had gone wine-tasting without me, annoyed that I had tarried at McDonalds, I suppose I will discover in due course. While I certainly would swing some of the local wineries and the surrounding countryside, I'm quite content to wait until tomorrow, working on the CBD, watching all the comings and goings along the wharf in front of PC's bow. Excited, expectant canal goers, such as we were but a scant twelve days ago, are busy loading luggage and provisions aboard their respective craft, shouting this, hollering that! Luckymones, already settled and ship-shape are enjoying late afternoon's warm sun, sipping wine and eating cheese on the flying bridges of their particular Penichette, a class of Locaboat.
Now that it is 5:00pm and my erstwhile traveling companions have definitely not returned to collect me, I will secure PC, hide key and go for a bike ride. Just as I wrote those fateful words, The Travelling Juiceheads returned, laden with armloads of hootch. They "claimed" to have made an attempt to find me but, being unsuccessful, blazed off in their spiffy new XXX, to seek out the local wine producers. They had stopped at two places, Domaine Alain Vignot where they tasted, buying two bottles of Bourgogne, Cotes Saint-Jacques. On to Houze Cyril where they had some difficulty finding the cellar. The place appeared to be just an ordinary farmyard and after a few minutes of wandering around the premises, an older women appeared, looking at them rather suspiciously! As soon as Flamin' made it known that they wanted to taste, all was well and she led the Intrepid Threesome through little more than half a Dutch door, down a steep set of stone stairs, Sarge of necessity, hunched over, into a brick vaulted cave, filled with crates and boxes of wine. They sat across from proprietor and tasted both white and red, enjoying themselves immensely. By this time it was close to 5:45pm so they purchased three bottles and said goodbye. Total cost for the five bottles was 29€, not a bad haul!
We opened a bottle of Domaine de Bois d'Yver, AC, 2009 Chablis, 12.5%, one that I'd bought in Auxerre, and with some blue cheese as well as a round of Camembert, they regaled me with their exploits. I enjoyed hearing about their afternoon and around 7:00ish, Goils went to power nap and Sarge and I went to Flying Bridge to figure out travel time to Berne, using Garmin Girl, and feed neighborhood ducks! I left him to shower and shortly before 8:00pm we strolled the two or three blocks to the Brasserie des Voyageurs. Goils had been unable to make a reservation at any of their preferred restaurants, Saturday evening obviously a busy time in Joigny, so had settled on this spot as it was within walking distance. Similar, in terms of unpretentious decor, (that being said, some very interesting and attractive b/w postcards, mounted in a large frame, showing historical scenes of Joigny and environs, people at picnics on river bank, etc., some sporting stamps of a few centimes), as the place we had eaten in Migennes, but serving Cuisine Italienne Traditionelle.
I ordered a Pastis and group decided on a carafe of house Sauvignon Blanc. Cora Lee and I decided to share a Mediterranean salad, ordering Med risotto, while I opted for veal. Flamin' didn't want an appetizer and settled on a steak with pomme frites. Sarge started with rottini in a creamy salmon sauce and pan fried fish.The pasta was simply wonderful and there was more than enough for everyone to have a large helping. CL's risotto was equally delicious and she shared out magnanimous portion to one and all. Unfortunately, Flamin's steak tasted, according to her, "like the east end of a west bound donkey!" I even had trouble chewing it. Veal and fish were fine but nothing exceptional, unlike Mediterranean salad which was delectable: crisp garden lettuce and tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and five or six large, and I mean large, slices of prosciutto! Shared it around as well. While Lads enjoyed meal, (both house red and white were quite mediocre compared to exciting wines we were used to quaffing, of late), The Sisterhood were mainly unimpressed, particularly Flamin'. However, to put things in perspective, she had only had a short nap before dinner and always wakes up, by her own admission, like a cranky two-year old! Not sure if she would have been any more pleased with a Three Pot, given her state of mind!
I thanked our waitress/owner, (I'd enjoyed my meal), and we walked back to PC, evening quite chilly. Clan Sutherland disappeared into their cabin almost immediately so I brushed and flossed while CL sat mesmerized before Flamin' iPad. Read until 11:00pm or so and then turned off light when CL came to bed. She usually reads, once snuggled in her bunk, but was too chilled from earlier reading in main cabin to do anything but huddle under her quilt, teeth chattering nicely to lullaby me to sleep!
Joigny, Day 14, Sunday, September 19th:
Up at 7:57am, CL's beady little eyes glaring at me, accusing, without question, me of snoring! Up to fix my cafe au lait and brew tea for chai drinkers. Finished off yesterday's CBD, while Flamin' went for bread and some yummy pain au raisin. Once Sarge was up, Goils started on an omelette and we ate the delicious sausage, pepper, tomatoes concoction, dusted with Parmesano! After breakfast, I had a quick shower, others starting to pack their belongings, ready for tomorrow's departure. Just before 10:00am we piled into roomy Renault Espace, making for Auxerre. Goils had determined that we would start tasting in Saint-Bris-Le-Vineaux, southwest of town of Chablis.
Secondary highway had little traffic and Sarge Sterling Mossed along, lurching my iPad from side to side as he negotiated roundabouts at warp speed! Passed well groomed fields and pasture lands, and a huge outdoor market with hundreds of cars parked in the fields nearby. Other villages were quiet and deserted, Sarge opining that everyone was at market passed earlier! Probably right! Further along we passed over A6, toll highway we used to get to Chabeuil. We actually saw collection of service buildings where we had stopped for lunch that first day in France, chortling at the memory of our experience with Frommage Blanc!
historic centre but also more recent suburbs, it in its entirety, unlike restricted vista seen from river. Not long after, making turn towards SBLV, our taste buds salivating in anticipation of first wine of day, as we drove past low, rolling hills covered with well tended vines. Into small village itself, parking near the church, in spite of Garmin Girl's protestations! We walked a few hundred metres to find Domaine Sorin-Coquard, and came upon owner was working in small courtyard. He welcomed us and showed us into the cave, another subterranean tasting/storage room, Sarge, Le Plus Grand Monsieur, having to hunch over to gain ingress. Once inside, we proceeded to taste the whites, two Chablis and an Aligote, a red, (Pinot Noir, of course, the only red of the region, Dear Reader, in case you haven't swotted your French wine regions!), and a Ratafia, a spirit/grape juice concoction, if I understand correctly. Owner was quite passionate about his wine and we quite enjoyed talking, as best we could. Personally, I found all of the whites too acidic and sharp. The Pinots were too, too thin for my liking. The Ratafia interesting as I'd never tasted such a creature before. Still, quite wonderful to meet such a small producer: 80,000 bottles.
Rest of group quite liked most everything so we bought a Chablis, an Aligote, (one I liked best), and two Pinots. Thanking him, he directed us to a large co-operatif, (one he didn't approve of, by the way), and we set off to Bailly Lapierre. Didn't realize just how large it was until we entered underground parking lot and found tasting bar. The Cave began over 800 years ago as a quarry and covers 4 hectares! Eighty growers contribute their fruit to enterprise. Bit like Mission Hill vs Black Widow, in terms of an Okanagan comparison to DSC. Nevertheless, most interesting, especially when twenty or so motorcycles roared through parking lot! Simply amazing tasting list. Although known for their Cremant de Bourgogne, vinified according to la Tradition Champenoise, we concentrated on their whites. Found the Saint-Bris AOC Sauvignon (Blanc) to be certainly the best I'd tasted in France, and rivaling many from elsewhere in the world. Liked the Irancy Pinot far better than ones from SBLV. The Framboise de Bourgogne was the hit of the Spiritueux de Bourgogne, beating out both the Cassis and Cerise, which were far too cloying for all of us. I was very pleased with tasting, in spite of size of operation, David vs Goliath, but the giant won this time, in my opinion.
On to Chablis itself, arriving about 1:15pm, just as market on the main street was beginning to wind down. We found a parking spot not far away and strolled past vendors, some dismantling their stalls, others still selling wares, to Domaine-Daniel-Etienne Defaix, Restaurant La Cuisine au Vin, place where Goils wanted to have lunch. We went inside and were seated but it was so chilly that we decided to try to find a place with a patio and sit in the sunshine. Found another spot which fir the bill but were seated in the shade! Still, it was warmer than in the other place. However, seats were incredibly low, uncomfortably so, for me, so I decided I'd rather eat elsewhere. Rest were prepared to stay so I left them to order and found a bistro across the way where I had a Pastis, a sandwich and an espresso. After finishing my simple lunch, I wandered the streets, snapping photos and peering into the windows of the unending number of caves which lined the main thoroughfare, as well as the alleyways of it.
We regrouped about 2:45pm and made for Tonnere, finding a mediveal market in progress on its main street. Gang wasn't interested in taking a look, (I was but was over-ruled!), so we proceeded towards Bernouil, a neighboring village, and located Domaine Fournillon et Fils. Parked car and made our way into a pleasant courtyard. Friendly woman greeted us and led us into the Cave below their modern home. We tasted their Chablis Premier Cru, Chablis and Bourgogne Epineuil. I enjoyed the whites the most but liked the Pinot better than any tasted so far. Rest of crew didn't like anything but I insisted on the Premier Cru and the Chablis. Thanking the wife of the vigneron, we made our way back to Chablis, around 4:05pm, with the idea that we would stop at first place we found that was open. Just after leaving Chablis behind, on the outskirts of Beines, we found Sylvain Mosnier, Proprietaire-Recoltant, and were certainly glad we did! Small operation, now run with the help of his daughter, Stephanie. Proprietaire showed us into the Cave, once more below the building we first entered off the street, consisting of two, low ceilinged rooms, one containg a small number of barrels, the other lined with hundreds of empty wine bottles from around the world. He produces only Chablis and was very proud of his wines, as he should be. We tasted about six, in all, and while so doing, Stephanie came downstairs to help translate. We had a lovely time listening to Sylvain talk and even though we didn't understand everything, we caught enough to get the drift of his thoughts. We purchased a bottle of 2008 Chablis Premier Cru, 13%, 12€, and one of 2006 Chablis Vielles Vignes, 12.5%, 10€, the former the most expensive bottle to date, but a steal without question! Although he is a fairly small producer, he ships to the US, Canada, (Quebec), NZ, Australia and Japan. Thanking father and daughter we promised to return next year and waved goodbye.
"The history of wine-making in Chablis goes back to 865 AD with the development of vineyards by the monks of Saint-Martin-de-Tours on slopes facing the Serein River that cuts through that village. At that time and for the centuries that followed, the Chablis wine trade grew substantially thanks to the waterways that made it possible to supply Paris from Auxerre.
With the French Revolution, estates changed hands but remained successful, and the total vineyard surface area reached 38,000 hectares. The end of the 19th centurysaw the coming of phylloxera in 1887, which wreaked havoc and reduced the vineyards to almost nothing.
It was only at the beginning of the 1960s, when the Chablis vineyard surface area was less than 1,000 hectares, that Chablis wine production took off again with the growth of mechanization and setting up of anti-frost systems (another plague for the vines of the region).The current productive vineyard surface area is 4,580 hectares.
William Fèvre is one of Chablis' greatest wine domaines, developed by the eponymous William Fèvre between 1957 and his retirement in 1998 when he sold to the Champagne House Joseph Henriot. William Fèvre began with just 7 hectares and had soon increased this to 48ha, planting widely in the best of the 1ers and grands crus where the vineyards had fallen by the wayside.
However the Fèvre penchant for new oak was not to everybody's taste.
Since the Henriot purchase the wines are made by the talented Didier Séguier who had previously been with the Bouchard team in Beaune. The domaine wines include 12 hectares of premier cru vineyards and no less than 16 hectares of grand crus.The whole crop of their domaine wines, straight Chablis included, is harvested by hand, the grands crus in small 'cagettes', with a sorting table back at the winery to ensure the quality of the raw material.
The 1er cru wines are vinified in 40-50% oak, the grands crus receiving 70-80%, but without using new wood - instead the domaine receives a plentiful supply of one year old barrels from Maison Bouchard, and the average age of wood in the cellars is 5 years old. The barrel and vat components are blended together after four to six months, for bottling before the end of the year."
Back home to Joigny by 5:20pm, I had a cup of coffee, (thermos keeps java piping hot all day!), along with a pain du raisin and worked on CBD while rest of troop read on Flying Bride in late afternoon sunshine. At 6:50pm it was time to change for posh dinner at La Rive Gauche at 7:30pm, I had a quick shower and, bowing to pressure from The Fashion Police, put on a pair of yoga pants, three-quarter length. Still not enough of a concession to satisfy completely, but one can, Dear Reader, only go so far! We left PC at about 7:20pm and it was only a few minutes before we were seated at our table. Very pleasant dining room, bustling with activity and guests already dining.
We spent some time trying to decipher the more esoteric dishes until we discovered, from a gentleman at next table that menus in English were available! Funnily enough, Sarge, whom has very little French, said that after looking at this menu, he was still staying with choices he had made with first one! We sipped aperitifs, (beer, Sarge, Kir Vin Blanc, Flamin', Campari/soda, Cora Lee and a Pastis, Ricard, for me), while we decided which dishes we would choose and which wine. In the end, the meal was divine. All agreed that it was certainly the best to date. The flavors, the stunning presentation were impeccable. The amuse-bouche was a small pot of cold scallop soup, laced with fine threads of saffron, going so nicely with the cheese flavored puffs which were served with our aperitifs and which The Goils were particularly partial to!
We had decided upon a Cote du Rhone Village, 2006 Chateau Bois-de-la-Garde, 15%, 28€, and were delighted with it, so much so that we ordered a second bottle, halfway through the meal, in spite of Flamin's protestations that one was enough. Didn't stop her from having more, we noticed, and caused a tiny bit of friction, when pointed out by Sarge! Goils had sliced scallops in a cream broth, with diced ham and beets; Sarge a remarkable filet of Sole which looked more like a salmon steak but tasted of succulent white fish; I had La Courge, which I thought would be pieces of roasted squash with a pasta of some kind. It turned out to be a soup and it was deemed the best entree by everyone, piping hot, with a velvet texture, three large squares of pasta covering puree, garnished sprigs of watercress, and muted spicy finish.
We toasted our canal trip and chatted about all and sundry, waiting for the main course to arrive. Goils had chosen steak and it was a tender medallion with a delicious dark, wine sauce, on a bed of Yudon noodles, while Sarge deviated from his preference for cod, to order fillet of duck, garnished with Ice-cube sized squares of beet. I had ordered the rabbit and it came as round filets/medallions on a bed of celery and other minced vegetables. Never had it served in this manner and liked this variation immensley. Again, the presentation of every dish was delicate and stunning, works of culinary art and gustatory excellence.
Next came the cheese plate and we each ordered three different kinds so that we could share nibbles. While I cannot remember all that we chose, (from Camembere to Chevre to Blue, etc, etc, etc), we marveled at the different subtle tastes and textures. Really needed that second bottle as the wine went marvelously with the cheese. And still dessert to come! I had La Noisette, a creamy concoction of hazelnut custard, together with a scoop of pistachio, I think, ice-cream, joined by a delicate tube of wafer, dusted with chocolate. Goils had some divine chocolate confection which had them swooning and Sarge had an fruit compote of some sort. By this time, I was almost overcome with the sheer voluptuousness of the meal and could hardly take in any further visual or olfactory stimuli. And this from the 31€ menu! I, for one, could certainly not dine like this often but to enjoy such an incredible meal with such wonderful wine for such a reasonable price, (120€ per couple, including tip, seemed ridiculously cheap by Vancouver standards), was certainly one of the true highlights of an already magical vacation.
We called for l'addition, thanked our waitresses and toddled, literally toddled, home. Once there, I packed up most of my belongings, ready for the morrow's early departure and then set the alarm for 6:00am. Read until midnight and then turned out the light, thinking that this was to be our last night aboard Petite Corvee as I drifted off!
Joigny/Berne, Day 1, Monday, September 20th:
Sarge wanted to stop at McDonalds for an egg McMuffin for breakfast, so we headed to the outlet, laughing at the irony of eating fast food after last evening's gourmet meal! Furthermore, we wanted to check email, to let our Swiss hosts know we were en route to Berne, among other things. Not to be so as place didn't open until 10:00am! This being the case, we turned on in-car GPS and followed our Garmin Guy, (now an English toff), out of Joigny, making for the A 6 and Dijon, by 8:45am. If all goes smoothly we expect to be knocking at the door of Sonnenblickstrasse 5 at 1:45pm, local time.
Quite foggy when we were loading car but ever since we started traveling on autoroute, it has been sunny with mainly clear blue sky. Perfect weather for traveling. Goils are reading in back and I digitated from time to time. Curious to see the countryside once we leave the A 6 as have travelled this section of highway before. At 10:20am, just after reaching Beaune, we headed east on A36, making for Mulhouse, Besancon and Dole, landscape almost identical to #1 going out to Chilliwack, except for lack of wide, treed median on Trans Canada.
Goils were agitating for lunch around noon so we took turnoff into Mulhouse and with more good luck than management, we found a parking spot quite near a street filled with restaurants. Settling on one with tables outside and in the sun, (it was sunny but cool and clear), we discovered there was also free WiFi! Reception was sporadic, however, but I was able to send a message to Nicolina Lymann, telling her of our anticipated arrival time in Berne and that we would call once there. I enjoyed a Frenchy Burger, basically a hamburger with an over easy fried egg atop! Delicious indeed, with thick fries and a small green salad.
Back to the car and in little more than an hour and a half, we were in Berne itself. No trouble at all to find Ittigen and then Sonnenblickstrasse 5. As we turned car around on a small side street, who should be parking his own car Heinz himself! We drove alongside and I lowered my window, asking him for directions. Recognizing us, he said we were in the wrong town and motioned us off! By the time we had parked Eveline came outside and we introduced Flamin' and Sarge. It was quite emotional for Eveline and Cora Lee, in particular, as they not seen each other since 1997, our first visit to Switzerland. Chloe and I had been to stay with them in 2007 but CL was not able to join us, having returned to Vancouver from Athens, earlier in trip.
Welcomed inside, we decided upon our bedrooms and then Sarge and I unloaded car while Goils toured rest of house. Once settled, we repaired to their comfortable patio, beside a small swimming pool, and Heinz poured everyone glasses of Carlene Malvolti, Extra Dry, Proseco, 11%, and we toasted each other and marveled at our reunion, catching up on many of the details of the intervening years, filling in The Sutherlands on a bit of the Rothenbuehler-Dunn/Durston history. Another bottle of same followed and we chatted and laughed and chatted until close to 5:00pm. Sarge wanted to go for a run while Flamin' and I wanted to log on to Heinz's wireless system. Unfortunately, he didn't know password some had to use their laptops. This was fine, other than the fact that I wanted to transfer my CBD entries from my iPad to my email account and couldn't do so without the wireless connection.
I checked my email, did some banking and then took a short nap. Showered and changed and joined rest downstairs. We opened a 2008 Les Hautes d'Eofe, Crozes-Hermitage, (Marsanne/Roussane), 13% while we visited in living room. Around 7:00pm, after opening another white, Domaine Edmond Chalmeau et Fils, 2007, Bourgogne Chitry, 12%, we sat at the dining room table and enjoyed a delicious ratatouille Eveline had prepared, along with meatballs and a tasty green salad, with a gloriously vinegary vinaigrette. (It was so to my liking that I finished off the three or four spoonfuls left in the bottom of the salad bowl!) Heinz opened a 2004 Carmenere, Reserva De Martino, Maipo, 14.5%, which he claimed I had selected when here in 2007. While I was more than happy to boast such foresight, I really don't think that I was aware of the varietal at that time. In any event, it was a gorgeous drop, rich, full with a subtle, spicy finish.
For dessert there was a cheese plate and Lads cracked the Bruichladdich. By 10:30pm everyone was quite happy to say goodnight so cleared away some of the dishes and went to our separate bedrooms. Both CL and I read for half an hour or so, greatly pleased with reading lamps on our bedside tables. At dinner that night, Heinz had regaled us with his stories about staying in hotels without bedside lamps. As a direct result of too, too many frustrating experiences, he now travels with a small halogen, folding lamp to ensure that he can read comfortably in bed!
Berne, Day 1, Tuesday, September 21st:
To be continued...
